PrintUlendo Safaris :: Malawi May 2009 :: Trip Report
By: Sarah Fazendin
This fam trip was organized by Ulendo Safaris (www.ulendo.net), designed to provide a fast overview of the highlights of the country focused on the southern circuit including Zomba, Liwonde National Park and of course the main attraction, Lake Malawi.
May 1, 2009: USA to Johannesburg, South Africa
Connecting from Denver, we arrived into Atlanta with about one hour to recharge computers, phones and fill our bellies before the 17 hour relatively-full flight to Johannesburg (in coach, boo!). Bonus: Internet available on the flight from Denver to Atlanta! It was easy to use and has me feeling less anxious about leaving the office for 3 weeks for this next African adventure. The Delta flight from ATL to JNB, while an older aircraft, did have on demand entertainment and the service was nice. After the refueling stop in Dakar, onwards to South Africa.
May 2, 2009: Overnight Johannesburg, South Africa
We arrived at about 4.30pm, almost the end of a very long journey. Overnight at the Southern Sun. I was pleasantly surprised by this property. The rooms were nice, we enjoyed a nice cheese and salad dinner with some wine, and the wireless internet in the room (not free) worked very well. What this property lacks in African character, it makes up for in convenience and value for money. We took their shuttle, which leaves every 15 minutes, both to the airport and back the next morning for the onwards flight to Lilongwe.
May 3, 2009: Flight to Lilongwe, Malawi and overnight
After nearly 11 hours of sleep (!) we made our way back to the airport and onwards to Lilongwe. It was actually nice to have the forced overnight in Johannesburg, as it gave us a chance to rest before reaching our final destination, and after a 17 hour flight real rest is necessary! Lines were long, as usual, for check in on SAA and the flight to Malawi was a bit delayed, but the flight was pleasant and we arrived into Lilongwe in the early afternoon. THIS is officially the end of a very long journey.
After arrival and check-in at Burley House we went for a nice walk around the block near area 43 of Lilongwe. Coming home near sun set, we heard the African dove, a sure sign that one is in Africa! The bird signs, “work harder, work harder” during the day, and after 5pm, they say “drink lager, drink lager” (a safari guide told me that once!) In May, the temperature is pleasant, warm days and cool, slightly humid nights.
Overnight Burley House, a charming 9 room cottage. We enjoyed dinner outside in the garden by the fire, under the stars.
May 4, 2009: Zomba Plateau
We woke to roosters crowing and dogs barking, noises of a typical African city and first of many traditional English breakfasts along the way. Before heading out of town we inspected Cavindish House (7 rooms, also a converted former colonial home quite near Burley house), which is also owned by Ulendo. The décor at this property is quite chic, and this property also has a pool. This would be a recommended first request when booking clients in Lilongwe.
After running a few errands in town, we set out through Lilongwe in all the bustle of a Monday morning. Then we drove south through the country side through small villages and a few larger towns. All along the way we saw the commerce that keeps Africa moving, people selling all kinds of vegetables, clothing, crafts, and more. We took a short break about two hours into our journey at Dezda Pottery, a popular pottery workshop. Bonus, there were very nice clean bathrooms here! After another two hours on the road and a quick packed lunch on the road, we arrived at the base of the Zomba plateau at Zomba town. This was the former capital and the president also has quite a large residence here.
Then it was a steep climb, past many men carrying wood down the steep and winding road, to arrive at Ku Chawe perched at the top of the Zomba Plateau. This property, which has about 40 rooms, is a typical older African lodge, with stunning views from a charming outside dining area. The bathrooms are clean but very basic, the rooms are again on the older side. They come in a make a nice fire in the fireplace in each room, which is nice to fend off the alpine air as you’re preparing for dinner.
The highlight of the trip thus far was a walk up the plateau through a small local village. Since we arrived later than planned, we decided to do without the guided walk and set out on our own up the hill. As often happened in Africa, we were soon surrounded by children who were dancing and running and jumping to get our attention. They were very sweet and accompanied us, running ahead of us, then pushing for us to go ahead of them, over and over, until we’d reached the top. Some of the boys were doing flips and acrobatics to keep us entertained. It always amazes me how we are able to communicate with one another, even if we don’t speak the same language. These are always my favorite memories of my African adventures. In the future I’ll remember to bring some pencils, stickers or other small treats for the children we meet along the way.
Malawi, for the most part, is quite clean. You don’t see trash laying about, there seem to be plenty of options for water and as we’re hear shortly after the rains everything is quite lush and green. The great thing about combining Malawi, perhaps the Lake and a few nights at Mvuu, is that the culture of this country is very interesting, colorful and in addition to the spectacular scenery and unique water-based safari activities and game reintroduction and rehabilitation story in Liwonde, offers a glimpse into “real” Africa that so often isn’t part of the safari experience in southern Africa.
At the end of our walk one in our group purchased some forest-picked raspberries and Cape Gooseberries from a gentleman out front of the hotel. We enjoyed these berries with some fresh cream for one of the most delectable desserts I’ve had in a very long time.
Overnight Ku Chawe (Sunbird property).
May 5, 2009: Liwonde National Park
We slept well in the cool Alpine air and awoke fresh for breakfast. We drove through Zombe town, again as the morning hustle and bustle was in full force, then made our way about 2 hours to the Shire River’s edge where we waited for the Mvuu Camp boat to pick us up. When the boat arrived there was a little discussion about the amount of luggage our group had, and the lesson learned is to pack light! A separate car was sent to retrieve our luggage. Transfer to the camp is by boat, as the road isn’t a comfortable drive this short after the rains. The boat ride was a treat and a highlight, and the great game seen from the boat, in addition to the “greens”, was spectacular. It is possible to charter in a flight to a nearby airstrip, but the boat ride is quite enjoyable and a viable option as well. We arrived at camp in time for briefing and lunch. After a short rest we met up for a sundowner boat cruise and a night game drive. The tented/thatch rooms are lovely, all overlooking a lagoon. Tent number 5, with it’s outdoor bathtub and private dining area overlooking the lagoon, is a must for couples and honeymooners.
The sundowner cruise took us slowly down the river towards the setting sun. Spending plenty of time gawking at a variety of birds, including the spectacular Malachite Kingfischer. As the sun was at its peak, McLoud our guide pulled out a few nice bottles of nice wine and we watched a spectacular sunset in the perfectly still and calm air that was a perfect temperature. Then, just before it got completely dark we boarded a Lane Rover for a night game drive back to camp. We saw the usual hares, owls, antelopes and even a chameleon, but when the guide stopped the car and let us just sit and listen to the African bush, we in fact “saw” the most.
We arrived back a little late, so directly to drinks around the fire and dinner. Dinner, as usual on safari, was a hearty starter of soup or fish, then chicken and veggies for the main course and a delicious molten chocolate cake for dessert. Before bed we took advantage of our lovely outdoor showers and had a steaming hot shower under the stars. The water is all heated with a very efficient soar power contraption. It was a bit hot at night so had to shed a few blankets before I was able to sleep. There are no fans in the tents, so it would be quite hot during the hot season (October, November, December).
Liwonde National Park and Mvuu Lodge were again, a highlight of the trip. What the park lacks in the big cats it makes up for in the unique opportunity to view elephant dining on Lake Hyacinth right on the edge of the Shire River.
After dinner, surrounded by the bell frogs and full of good conversation, we ambled down the long path to our tents on the lagoon and enjoyed a lovely outdoor shower, under the star-filled sky. A totally refreshing experience. In fact, we stayed up reading and talking until a little too late, full of the fresh air and not nearly as exhausted as we’d been on previous nights.
May 6, 2009: Liwonde to Lake Malawi, Mumbo Island
Mvuu Camp seems to do a nice job of empowering the local guides, who are all quite good. Jim took us on a walking safari in the morning, pointing out the trees, plants, tracks and dung. We did see plenty of the thriving and not-at-all shy antelope population during the walk, in addition to warthog and fresh elephant tracks. After breakfast it was time to pack up and get on the boat for a 45 minute boat ride to where our guide would rejoin us.
After a 45 minute boat ride, and about 1.5 hours driving on sometimes bumpy roads (including a site inspection of Club Makokola, a large resort on Lake Malawi, beautiful garden but lacking the small, intimate and special experience many American travelers seek. May be appropriate for large conference groups or elderly travelers) we arrived into the charming and small Cape Maclear and the jetty for Kayak Africa. There we boarded another boat for 45 minutes across the lake to a private island, Mumbo.
First thing we noticed, Lake Malawi is HUGE! The Lake us surrounded by massive, densely forested hills, that emerge from the water like mountains. The weather is warm and perfect for laying around on the beach. Kayak Africa on Mumbo Island is like a dreamy, rustic African Robin Crusoe getaway. The 6 tented chalets are built on large rock outcropping (only one is near the main beach, the other 5 you must walk on a long pier to reach). The views are simply stunning. This property has no electricity and the tents are comfortable but basic. Most of the tents have bathroom facilities slightly separate (a few steps away) from the sleeping area, so people who stay here should be relatively nimble, agile and comfortable with off-path walking to get to the rooms. It is the definition of eco chic. We enjoyed a late afternoon dip in Lake Malawi, which is absolutely crystal clear, and enjoyed a few “greens” as the sunset faded. It was magical.
The showers are bucket showers and the property, which is on a remote island, uses composting toilets, so the property is quite eco-friendly.
May 7, 2009: Lake Malawi, Pumalani
This morning the water on the lake, which was totally calm and clear yesterday, is a bit more choppy, which was a nice sound to wake up to. The skies are totally clear, and sitting on your porch, perched overlooking the lake and the cove where the property sits, with your coffee, is pretty special.
After breakfast we took the opportunity to go around the island in kayaks. It was my first time kayaking, but it’s pretty easy to pick up! The dedicated kayak handler gave us instructions and off we went. It was amazing! The water in Lake Malawi was so clear, we could see all kinds of fish, and even saw Cormorants fishing under the water. Kayaking was physical but not a serious work out, and a totally peaceful experience. The entire time of our stay we didn’t see any other people, except for camp staff and other guests. With only 6 rooms, Kayak Africa’s Mumbo Island would be ideal for adventurous honeymooners.
We took the boat back to the main land. Kayak Africa has a nice gift shop, which we took advantage of! We then inspected Danforth Yachting which is on the mainland just minutes down the beach from Kayak Africa. The main draw at Danforth is Mufasa, the only yacht in the country of Malawi! This boat is available for charter, and they also can arrange transfers from Mvuu on the boat, which is an overnight trip. The yacht sleeps 10 but would be most comfortable for a family or two couples. It’s the owner’s pride and joy, and charter of the yacht comes with the owner, in addition to a first mate and a cook. For keen sailors, this would be a great charter opportunity and a unique way to get from Liwonde to Lake Malawi.
Pumalani is the most luxurious property we stayed at during our time in Malawi. The property is very new, and decorated in chic, urban style. The road to Pumalani is bumpy, but worth it. The large, cool main area has a stunning view of the lake. The infinity pool, perched half way down the hillside, is the perfect way to spend afternoons at the end of safari. The rooms are very spread out and involve lots of steps. So while not ideal for elderly or people who are not fit to climb several sets of stairs, there is a golf cart available to bring people to the beach. The lunch, fresh pizza with a green salad, was excellent and the desserts were amazing. They have a nice old Swahili dhow which they take out on sunset cruises. The rooms are gigantic, and very comfortable. The property also has internet.
May 8, 2009: Malawi to Durban
This morning we had an early start to make time for a visit to Mua Mission, en route back to Lilongwe. This was a real highlight for some people, as it’s an opportunity to purchase some exquisite wood carvings and other local handicrafts. The mission area is clean, well manicured, and features a beautiful building from 1902 where the pastors live. There is also an art museum with amazing collector pieces (not for sale) which you can view for an admission fee of 300 Kwacha.
We made our way to the airport in Lilongwe, Malawi which marked the end of a fast-paced week visiting this amazing country. The airport takes a while to get through, and they are strict about the 30kg luggage allotment per person (at least SAA was). Some in our group had to pay for excess baggage.
Malawi, perched in between southern and eastern Africa, is an adventurous, memorable and unique addition to any safari program. At a minimum, a visit for a night or two to Liwonde National Park and Mvuu Lodge, and three to four days on Lake Malawi at the end of safari, are well worth it. The temperature in May couldn’t’ have been better, things seemed to be quite lush following the rains, and the bugs were not bad at all. I’ve never been to a destination that offered such a variety of accommodations, each property we stayed at was special and totally different in it’s own way.)
For African specialists, and those with adventurous clients, Malawi is a destination that will help differentiate your product and is also very cost effective when pricing it into a greater southern or eastern African itinerary. Ulendo Safaris is a group of young, dynamic travel professionals who are perhaps the most knowledgeable about Malawi in the industry. They can make pretty much anything happen!
Note: We have photos of all the properties and rooms. In this trip report we included a few “highlight” images but please do email for more images of rooms, properties or anything else and we’re happy to send your way.
