PrintMay 02, 2010
Consecutive flights from Zanzibar to Nairobi, Nairobi to Johannesburg had me arrive around 1:00am the morning on May 2nd, unfortunately with no luggage. I was met be a friendly man who transferred me to The Safari Club near the airport. I caught a few hours of shut-eye before heading back to the airport.
I picked up some company at the Safari Club: four travel agents and Brenda Dickinson, marketing personal for Transfrontier Parks Destinations and we were all off to visit Machampane. The flight from Jo’burg to Phalaborwa is very quick and easy. We were met by our driver and made our way through Kruger National Park on a 2.5 hour game drive to the border of South Africa and Mozambique.
Note to travel agents/operators working Machampane into and itinerary. The Giriyondo border between South African and Mozambique closes at 3:00pm SHARP and the flight gets in at noon if on time. Therefore, I would recommend having guests overnight in Phalaborwa or spend a few nights in the Kruger or in a nearby concession prior to their stay at Machampane as you don’t want to miss the border close.
Once past the border it is only about an hour game drive to Machampane – A 5-bed luxury bush camp along the Machampane River. The focus of the camp is on walking safaris through the bush. They have multiple trail-trained guides on hand to spot the little things such as insets, tracks and medicinal plants or big things such as crocodiles and elephants. In fact, we saw a croc take down a python on our walk along the river that made for a very exciting day!
May 03, 2010
After a very delicious breakfast, our group got back in the vehicle to check out Transfrontier Parks Destinations’ newest project Covane Lodge. Covane Lodge is owned by the local community and TFPD has just signed on to help expand, manage and market the property. TFPD will be building some luxury accommodations and an al a carte restaurant the gorgeous property overlooking the Massingir Dam on the western border of Mozambique. They have also just purchased two houseboats for the river. Stay tuned for information on the development of this new addition to the TFPD collection.
That night was spent around the boma, enjoying sundowners and the day’s stories. The evening was topped off with a delectable braai and a cozy night’s sleep listening to the sounds of the wilderness surrounding the tent.
May 04, 2010
Today we made and early departure and stopped at the local school and village that Machampane unofficially sponsors. We met all the little children learning under a tree. They were so excited and happy to see us. With a couple of retired teachers in our group we were quick to sing different children’s songs and dance goofy dances. Both our group and the kids had a blast. We left after many smiley goodbyes to continue our journey back through the Giriyondo border and Kruger National Park to catch a flight back to Johannesburg.
Back at the Safari Club we had a quick dinner and a nice shower (I was also very happy to get my luggage back!). The Safari Club is a nice alternative to the “businessy” airport hotels near OR TAMBO. The rooms are clean and crisp; the amenities are basic but very comfortable. The grounds surrounding the rooms are well manicured with beautiful gardens and a pool. There is homely bar and lounge area where guests can order takeout or the meal served by the Safari Club that evening.
May 05, 2010
To get to !Xaus Lodge we took a scheduled Airlink flight to Upington; a cute little town known in South Africa for wine making and sheep farming. From the airport it is a 2.5 hour drive on nice paved roads through Upington to the gates of the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. From this point travelers continue the drive (which is now a game drive through the park) to a picnic area where they will be met with snacks and welcome drinks. After finishing the refreshments, the drive continues through 91 deep red sand dunes for 45mintues to an hour (or more depending on game viewing) to the lodge.
!Xaus’s 12 chalets blend right in with the rusty surroundings of the Kalahari Desert. We arrived right at sunset an almost spiritual sense of relaxation took over our whole group. As the sun went down so did the temperature. The nights and early mornings are very chilly this time of year and it even gets colder later on in their winter and when factoring in the wind-chill while on a game drive it can be freezing! Therefore, it is extremely important to wear lots of layers.
The food at !Xaus is exceptional and is prepared by Ellen a local chef who adds her own traditional touches to the various dishes. We had a wonderful dinner followed by a nice game drive. Once back in the chalets, it was wonderful to snuggle into the warm winter sheets and rest.
May 06, 2010
We did an early walk with the ‡Khomani San Bushman that was extremely interesting. We tracked footprints, inspected cocoons, and learned how people used to ward of lions with big bushes on their heads. You feel really small when out in the middle of the desert surrounded by pure nothingness. It is a very indescribable and very fascinating feeling.
In the afternoon, Peter the lodge manager gave us a brief history of the ‡Khomani San and Mier communities. We then headed out across the heart-shaped salt pan to the nearby craftsman village to meet them first-hand. There, the bushman create crafts to sell to guests. We sat and talked with them for a while with the help of Peter translating the Afrikaans to English, purchased a few souvenirs and went back to the lodge.
The last evening of our trip was perfected with a game drive with sundowners in the middle of the desert. We sat in silence (which was hard to do with our group ) and “listened to the sunset.” It was absolutely magical. To top it all off the night ended with a big braai out in the boma which was quite a feast. We shared safari stories with the other guests in camp and had a wonderful time out under the star-filled sky.
