PrintKenya :: Offbeat Safaris Trip Report
By: Sarah Fazendin
January 11th and 12th: Travel USA to London
This was my first experience with Virgin Atlantic, and I was not impressed. The seats in the “bottom class” are perhaps the smallest in the industry.
Thankfully I’d booked myself in at Yotel in Terminal 4 of Heathrow Airport upon arrival in London. These small rooms have a comfy bed and fantastic shower, all you need to feel refreshed mid travel to Africa! It took a few hours to transfer to the terminal 4, go through customs, and I needed to get a boarding pass for the Kenya Airways flight later that day, so if you have less than a 5 hour layover it’s probably not worth it, but for a 5-7 hour layover it was perfect! Note, they do have some small meals for purchase, but they are not very good, bring food with you if you’re hungry. The included, fast wi-fi was a huge bonus.
January 13th: Arrive Nairobi and Meru Offbeat Camp
I love arriving into Nairobi, even at 6am. The smell of the damp air is something I look forward to always.
After getting a visa (which was only $25, they temporarily reduced the rate from $50) and luggage, my driver met me and we transferred to Wilson airport for the 9am scheduled AirKenya flight to Meru National Park. Arriving a bit early, I had time to enjoy breakfast and coffee at the Dorman’s café at Wilson airport, reflecting on how happy I am to be back in Kenya!
The flight to Meru stopped at Nanuyiki (Mt. Kenya) and Samburu, and gave me a fantastic view of how green Kenya is at the moment! Kenya has had lots of rain and everything is looking lush and beautiful. Arriving into Meru we flew over rolling hills misty in the distance then finally touched down and I was in the gorgeous warm African sun and heat. Jackson and Daniel, 2 of Offbeat’s all-Maasai guide staff, greeted me and off we went on a one hour game drive back to camp. The weather in January was perfect, warm with a nice light breeze. As the only one in camp after the holiday rush, we had a lovely, relaxing afternoon lounging in the mess tent, enjoying a light lunch of salads and just chatting about Africa.
Meru Offbeat Camp is a classic semi-permanent safari camp, with only six tents, is small, intimate and laid back. The tents are large, with large verandas out front, massive beds and en suite bathrooms with bucket showers and flush toilets. The game in Meru National Park is quite good (with a large Rhino sanctuary), and this camp is a perfect place to start a safari. Guests arriving on overnight international flights can take the first day at this camp and in Kenya to enjoy a leisurely lunch, have a swim, bask in the warm African sun and have a nice nap before sundowners and dinner. I can’t think of a better way to overcome jet lag!
I had an early evening tonight and I promptly drifted off to sleep.
January 14th: Meru to Laikipia and Sosian Ranch
As I woke in the wee hours, I heard lion calling and the first loud squawk of birds waking up, natures alarm clock. Within minutes the sky was light and the sounds turned from the odd insect buzz and baboon bark at night to a fill on symphony of birds. With over 300 species of birds in Meru National Park, it’s quite a chorus. I was brought coffee to my tent and left to enjoy a few moments in the bush alone, marveling at the distance I’d travelled in a relatively short time to get where I was at that moment!
After breakfast we drove to the airstrip, about 40 minutes, to meet our private charter to Sosian. The aircraft is a four-seater, so ideal for a couple, plus luggage. The flight was fantastic! As we all have headsets to wear we can talk the whole way there, and the pilot was pointing out sights and flying quite low over the park. It was a fantastic view of Kenya, highlighting the dramatic ecosystem shift in only a matter of miles from lush and green, to rolling mountains, to arid and dry land heading over Samburu towards Laikipia. The flight is $1200, so a splurge for some but at only one hour a way to save some time and see a bit of the country vs. the 5 hour road transfer to Sosian ranch in Laikipia.
We arrived in time for lunch, which was taken by the pool followed by a nice siesta in our rooms, with the light breeze billowing the curtains. After coffee we set out on what would be one of the best game drives of my life.
I understood that this time of year, after the rains, was a more difficult time to see game in Laikipia (which is quite hilly and bushy anyway) as the game was dispersed and not concentrated near the water points. So as we went along looking at birds, plains game and even the adorable dwarf mongoose, I was happy and it was a beautiful afternoon. Then, one of our guides noticed a monkey alarm call in a tree near the river as we were driving past, and said that it could be a leopard, snake or other predator. So we watched where the monkeys were looking and sure enough there was a massive leopard strolling by. And she was beautiful. After watching her for a while before she slunk off into the bush, we headed to a massive rock and climbed way up on top for some of the most spectacular views and to see if we could see where the elephant where.
We did spot elephant and were soon on our way to get closer to them. We came upon a heard of about 50, with many young ones playing and splashing about in the river. This time of year they don’t need to travel as far to get water, so they have more time to play and enjoy themselves. And over sundowners, we also enjoyed ourselves watching them from down wind, about 50 yards away, on foot for about an hour. It was only when the wind stopped and they started to move on did they realize we were there, then quickly moved off. It was magical. Then packing up (quickly, as one of the elephants came out of the river behind us causing us to scramble into the vehicle) we headed out with the spotlight in the dark back to the lodge.
We came around a corner into a clearing and spotted giraffe, two jackal and several impala and other plains game. Then, we spotted a black-backed hyena which was amazing. Then, as the light swung around we spotted a very full female cheetah! Apparently there had been a kill in that area and after the cheetah had her fill the scavengers were coming for their turn.
As this game drive ran long, we headed back to the lodge for a drink around the massive fireplace then enjoyed a lovely dinner of beef fillet (local Laikipia beef is considered to be some of the best in the country) and roasted veggies.
January 15th: Laikipia to Deloraine
This morning, like many other, started with coffee in my room as I sat on the veranda watching the sun rise over the Laikipia terrain listening to the doves and countless other birds waking up as well.
During breakfast we noticed that the light started to get a bit strange, and realized that today was a lunar eclipse! We watched the shadows go sickle shaped. After that I said good bye to Sosian and headed by road to Deloraine, which was about a 3 hour drive past Thompson’s Falls (totally kitschy tourist trap) and to Nakuru then about 30 minutes outside of Nakuru to Rongai where the Deloraine estate is located. The drive isn’t bad at all, but most people don’t connect these properties into a circuit, but rather start or end their safaris at Deloraine or use it as a mid-way stop on a mobile circuit when the camp is being moved.
Deloraine is a massive, old colonial home with impressive formal gardens and two large verandas looking out the back of the house over the gardens. Tristan and Cindy Vorsprey, the owners, are the most delightful and welcoming hosts, and Deloraine is very much their home. This property is truly something different vs. most safari properties, and would be a welcome change in the middle of a safari, or a restful beginning or end to a trip. Travelers are guests in this grand home, so don’t expect room service and a highly formal schedule, but rest assured all needs are well attended to and don’t be surprised of neighbors or friends stop in for drinks and dinner too!
For anyone traveling to Kenya who is interested in horse riding, this is a must stop. They have over 80 horses, their own polo pitch and offer riding in the area and on the grounds. The colonial atmosphere is historic, decadent and totally relaxing. We spent the afternoon lounging by the pool, where lunch was served, followed by a siesta and then a fantastic walk around the grounds, which include not only the Deloraine property but a separate farm and village (whose inhabitants are decedents of the staff of property from when the house was built over 90 years ago).
After drinks by the fire, a lovely dinner of duck, veggies, home made bread was served in the formal dining room. The staff is fantastic here, and the attention to detail is outstanding. Tonight was a fantastic night of sleep, in the large four-poster beds with overstuffed pillows.
January 16th: Deloraine to Offbeat Mara Camp
This morning as the sun came up over the stunning gardens, I rolled over in my comfy bed and thought about how wonderful it was to be in Africa. Some travelers need a break from the sometimes grueling schedule of safari, and Deloraine is the perfect place to unwind for a few days. Between the pool, the gardens and the absolutely beautiful collection of horses available, this is the perfect resting point. Day trips to Nakuru are also available, and guests can have lunch in the park and great opportunity to see Rhino and Leopard.
After breakfast, we drove around the grounds to the polo pitch to watch the polo ponies getting their exercise. Then we headed to the private Deloraine airstrip where we took a small plane to the Mara, which was a lovely one hour flight over the tea estates of Kericho and the Mau forest before dipping into the Masai Mara. In classic Mara style, about five minutes after leaving the airstrip en route to camp we came across a beautiful female cheetah and her cub.
After a light lunch and siesta, we headed out on a game drive and came across elephant quite near camp, as well as the same cheetah and the Marsh pride of lion (sleeping). I was reminded that the Masai Mara truly is the top wildlife viewing area in the whole of Africa.
January 17th: Nairobi and Travel
This morning I decided to skip the morning game drive and spend some quality time with my computer. Of course, every time one decides to skip a game drive is usually when the most spectacular wildlife experiences happen! However this morning, as I was typing away, a huge male lion trotted past my tent, about 100 yards away, and turned to pose for me in perfect morning light, before heading on. This time I’m glad I stayed back! And this also goes to show what a fantastic location Mara Offbeat is in.
After breakfast we transferred to the Musiara airstrip, about 40 minutes away, for my scheduled flight back to Nairobi. Sad to be leaving Kenya, but happy for the few days I was able to spend here. January truly is my favorite time of year to be in Kenya, after the holiday crowds have left, it’s nice and warm and with the recent rains everything was stunningly green and the wildlife look clean and happy.
For detailed property information on any of the above properties, please contact us
