PrintMbali Mbali Lodges and Camps :: Tanzania May 2009 :: Trip Report
This fam trip was organized by Mbali Mbali Lodges and Camps (www.mbalimbali.com) and designed to provide a fantastic group of travel professionals a fast-paced glimpse at each of the four lodges in the collection while allowing us a chance to enjoy each of these amazingly remote locations and the atmosphere at each of the properties.
May 12, 2009: South Africa to Dar es Salaam, Tanzania
Weary from a hectic (but fun and productive as always!) run at INDABA in Durban, we boarded our flight to Dar es Salaam Tanzania. The wave of hot, humid air as the cabin doors opened and we deplaned was a nice welcome to Tanzania. The airport in Dar is noting special, and the Visa process is as inefficient as one could imagine. Basically after completing your forms, you hand over $100 bucks and someone takes them all in a pile into the back for processing. But as often happens in Africa, somehow it all works out and we were soon on our way. En route to the hotel, unfortunately I was sending a text message and my cell phone was stolen out of my hands through an open window at a stop light. A sad reminder of the rough economic and social situation that remains in Africa today. But, it could have been worse and thank goodness I have a good World Nomads travel insurance policy!
Soon enough we made it to the Coral Beach Hotel and enjoyed a lovely dinner of fresh seafood outside in the warm, African air. This hotel recently added a new wing of rooms, which are beautiful, and with a handy power adaptor contraption, flat screen TV and FREE Wi Fi Internet, this hotel offered amenities that one doesn’t usually find in Africa. In Dar, as elsewhere on our trip, this property took great precautions against mosquitoes, including spray and incense coils. I must admit, however, that I didn’t think the bugs were particularly bad and saw very few despite visiting immediately following the rainy season.
May 13, 2009: Dar es Salaam to Arusha and on to Tarangire River Camp
We woke this morning to realize we were right on the ocean, something we didn’t realize coming in late at night. We enjoyed breakfast by the pool overlooking a marina. Then a transfer to the airport and off we went on ZantasAir’s beautiful 14 passenger Cessna Caravan. For me flying over Africa in a small safari plane is still one of the most romantic aspects about safari, hearkening back to the days of Denys Finch Hatton.
We landed at the Arusha regional airport and then transferred about 1.5 hours to Tarangire River Camp by road. A busy Wednesday morning, we passed colorful markets, lush, green fields and small villages on a nice (for African standards!) road along the way. We talked about all the wonderful African books we’ve read (there is a whole genre of “African Safari” books and memoirs out there!), and made some notes (watch a future blog post from me about this very thing!)
Tarangire River Camp is located just outside of the national park, perched on the steep banks of a dry river bed (which apparently runs a few days up to one month per year). The facilities are beautiful and after my second visit to the camp I still believe it’s one of the best values in all of Africa. With the addition of a spa in the coming months and the development of new day volunteer programs with the local Maasai communities, this property is a perfect option for a first night in Tanzania for travelers who arrive early in the morning of international flights into Arusha.
After a delicious lunch (Mbali Mbali just hired a European chef to train and run the cuisine at all four camps) we had a short rest then headed out for a bush walk with the Maasai. For a first timer on safari, this is a great way to spend time with local Maasai people as well as learn a bit about the bushes and other small and interesting facts of the bush. Hopefully in coming months they will add actual visits to the villages and further cultural interaction opportunities. As with all good safari companies, Mbali Mbali is taking their time to ensure that it’s done in a sensitive and mutually beneficial method.
Drinks around the fire then a nice meal with some local flavor on the menu (Curry Swahili Chicken and Beef with Green Bananas, tradition Tanzanian fare). Getting ready for bed we listened to the Hyena’s calling and the sounds of the evening bush really start to come alive. It’s easy to get a good night sleep here with the cool nights and comfortable beds.
May 14, 2009: Tarangire River Camp to Katuma Bush Lodge
Morning in the bush is always a treat. Coffee on the deck and a nice start to the day. We had a tour of the back end of the camp, and once again I’ve come to appreciate what these cooks can produce in the middle of the bush and what a true task it is to run a safari camp in the middle of nowhere. A short drive back to Arusha and we were back in our private plane for a flight to Katavi.
The flight was 2 hours to Tabora, then a rest stop for bathroom break and leg stretch, the about one more hour on to Katavi. I’ve always heard how remote Katavi is, but it’s another thing to see it with your own eyes! We flew over small towns, which trickled into villages, then nothing but vast bush leading to Katavi National Park. This is one of the largest parks in Tanzania, with an amazing flood plain (which this time of year is full, making for a breathtakingly stunning shimmering view as you approach it from above in the plane, right before we landed we flew low over a large herd of buffalo who ran as the Egrets flew up in a massive swarm of white, totally amazing) and wow, this park is remote. In May, typically the low season due to the amount of water in the park (dry season it’s easier to see game as it congregates near the permanent water of the river) is a lovely time to be in Africa. The game is still very good and the landscape is a vibrant green and the animals look extremely healthy and clean. We are truly in the African bush, and the game certainly didn’t disappoint. The reaction of the group was exactly what you’d hope for a welcome into the deep bush. Personally, here I’ve found that feeling of being truly “alive” we often hear travelers talk about while in the African bush. We saw elephant, giraffe, plains game, amazing bird life and as we crossed the Katuma river hippo and massive crocodile.
Katuma Bush Lodge can accommodate a maximum of 20 people in raised tents. The tents are stunning, having recently been refurbished, with plenty of space and hints of Tanzania’s Swahili culture in the décor. Days were hot and dry and the evenings were perfectly comfortable and cool in the mornings. The property will be adding a pool before the end of 2009. The camp is dead center in the middle of the park, which provides plenty of options for the game drives. Terrain ranges from the massive flood plain, to the river bed teeming with wildlife, to bushy areas.
West and Jeff are two of the full time guides and are both excellent. Jeff and Colleen, the managers, are lovely and great hosts.
We wolfed down a quick lunch and then set off on a game drive. The energy in the group was amazing and away we went. The scene was stunning, and NOT A SINGLE other car was seen. Even in peak season, if travelers don’t want to see tons of other vehicles in the park and get away from the crowds, this is the place to come. While Katavi National Park is extremely remote and void of people, the cost to get there can be expensive to some. The charter flights run twice per week, so the schedule is determined by that. And if combining Katavi and the Chimps the cost can be upwards of $1000 for domestic flights alone. But to fully experience how absolutely massive Tanzania is allows you to appreciate the cost associated with getting to some of the most remote places left on earth.
At Katavi, there are not as many individual species of wildlife as you’ll see in the Maasai Mara or Serengeti, but what you do see is in spectacular quantities. It’s probably the best place to see relaxed Hippo out of the water throughout the day.
We enjoyed sundowners by the river and back to camp for dinner and entertaining bush drinks (a little too late into the night!) afterwards.
May 15, 2009: Katuma Bush Lodge
This morning was a typical early start at safari, with wake up around 6am, a quick cup of coffee then on to find the lion that were hunting quite near to camp in the night. In addition to Lion, we had Hyena in camp as well as hippo. The night noises excited everyone to get out into the bush! We sped around for an hour or so, but alas couldn’t find the lion. With the scrubby brush and long post-rain grasses, it would be near impossible to find the lion once they lay down for their day of rest. During the dry season when the grass dies back, it’s much easier to spot the cats as well as greater concentrations of wildlife near the permanent Katuma River. Eventually we slowed down and enjoyed elephant, giraffe, plains game, hippo and crocodiles as well as amazing bird life. Driving slowly along the Katuma River is certainly on the tops of my list as far as game viewing areas.
The morning game drive was nice and long and we were back by 11:30 for lunch. The food is very good, for lunch we had eggplant lasagna, a frittata and some salads. The huge, shaded verandas of the tents are perfect for an afternoon nap and book (or trip report writing!). I enjoyed a lovely hot shower, the showers in this camp are very nice and 24 hour hot water is not an issue. After the morning game drive the guides went back out and managed to find our lion, which was amazingly quite near the camp on the flood plain. We saw her as we set off on the afternoon game drive, it was a pregnant female.
This evening we had an opportunity to do a game walk, and of all the safaris I’ve done this was the closest to big game I’ve come on foot. We walked along the river next to Hippo and Crocs, and at one point came across two male buffalo on our left. We had an armed game ranger with us, and walked for about one hour, arriving at the most wonderful sundowner location. Drinks and snacks were ready as we photographed the sunset over the flood plain.
May 16, 2009: Mahale’s Kungwe Lodge
The flight from Katavi to Mahale was stunning and short. As we approached into Mahale, we saw Nkungwe peak on the left, at 8,300 feet.
The approach into the Mahale airstrip is perhaps the most dramatic I’ve ever had in Africa. As you pass the Mahale Mountains on your left, you see the sweeping coastline of Lake Tanganyika and a small dirt airstrip which literally ends in the lake. Precision when landing here is essential. As we landed kids were lining the runway. It was a Saturday so the arrival of the Caravan certainly drew a large crowd! We then jumped into Mbali Mbali’s boat and enjoyed some relaxation on the hour long boat ride to camp. I could see the group begin to relax the second we pulled away from the jetty and settle into the calm boat ride.
The forest in Mahale National Park is amazingly thick, and it reaches right down to the lake coastline. Across the lake we could see the Congo Mountains. So close yet so far away. At last we rounded the corner and WOW, there was Kungwe Beach Lodge. The vast beach ends with the main chalet, which a fellow traveler described as “unexpected Zanzibar Chic”. The camp has 10 tents, with four on one side and six on the other, more spread-out side, and an amazing, huge beach front on Lake Tanganyika.
A quick lunch and then onwards to see the chimps! The trek was a slightly strenuous trek on the pathways, then on to more difficult trekking as we were “bush whacking”. We had a great guide named Bernard, through Mbali Mbali, as well as two TANAPA (Tanzania National Parks) guides who were also along to “make sure we abided the rules.” He also was our panga wielding bush-whacker. We trekked about 45 minutes when we found a single male, Fanana. He used to be the dominant male, but has since been ousted. It was a fleeting glimpse, and we didn’t see him again. But it was late in the day and with all the bush-whacking we were dripping with sweat so headed directly to the lake and ordered some beers from the barman, which we drank while floating in Lake Tanganyika, watching the sun set over the Congo across the lake (about 30 miles away). The beach is amazing, and our lake party eventually moved to a fire on the beach where lovely snacks were served and an ever-present barman made sure our glasses were full. Dinner was a wonderful Tilapia with sauce and veggies. The food has been pretty amazing that’s for sure!
Today’s trek was pretty difficult, but not out of the question for anyone who is relatively fit. Mahale is generally considered to be easier trekking than Gombe Stream National Park.
The stars under the beach were an absolutely amazing night sky. With no villages nearby (no one lives in Mahale National Park and fishing is not allowed on the shores of the park) or any other tourists in the area (the only other two properties in the park were closed), the night sky was stellar. NO large towns are around “within a three day boat ride”, as the managers Menno and Adel told us, as I mentioned this is definitely one of the more remote places in Africa. Falling asleep listening to the small waves lap up against the sandy beach, I feel like I’m truly in a wild, African paradise.
May 17, 2009: Mahale’s Kungwe Lodge
This morning we had a “relative” sleep in, until 7am, followed by breakfast and an 8:45 departure for the chimp trek. From my tent (#1), I watched the sun come up over the Mahale Mountain range and Kungwe Lodge beach and the lake over my toes and the foot of my bed. If combining the chimp experience with a safari in East Africa, which most people indeed do, it’s nice to have this relative luxury of a non-rushed morning, followed by some exercise on the trek, then the afternoon spent relaxing in the lake, eating some of the AMAZING food at this property, and an evening boat cruise or other lake activity. The pace and variety in this amazing lake location is a huge selling point, not to mention the chimps and the activity of the trek!
Since we packed quite light for the safari (which is always advisable) we were faced with the situation of wet, dirty clothes from yesterday’s trek. We were able to do laundry today, but as drying is dependant on the sun it’s never guaranteed that the clothes will be dry for the following day. I sadly had to put on damp and dirty pants, but they came off the second we got back from today’s trek before I jumped in the lake! One in our group even brought her quick dry pants into the lake with her for a rinse! I’ll certainly be investing in quick dry pants for maximum comfort in this humid environment.
We divided into two groups and set off in different directions to maximize chances of finding the chimps since the trackers had not yet come across the chimps. We walked pretty much directly up hill on the well established trails for about one hour. The guide, (Bernard, who is fantastic!) stopped regularly to tell us about trees, point out the various fruits that the chimps eat, etc. He made sure we were going “pole pole” (“slowly, slowly” in Kiswahili) and constantly asked if we wanted more water. Mbali Mbali provides brown canvas straps that fit one bottle of water, and the guide carries several more, so you’re never thirsty. Even after today’s strenuous trek, we didn’t run out of water! It is very important to remember to carry as little as possible while on these treks. While you could get lucky and come across the chimps very early, it’s more likely that the whole process of trekking up the hill, spending the allotted 1 hour with the chimps and hiking down will be about a 5-6 hour outing. I found the trek in Mahale to be more strenuous that in Gombe, but traditionally Mahale is thought to be the “easier’ trekking of the two parks.
Then, about one hour into the hike we got word of the chimp’s location. We bush-whacked through the forest to a parallel path and then proceeded to bush-whack directly up the mountains to the chimp’s location. This rainforest is certainly thick and moist, and while there certainly are bugs, we were not bothered with mosquitoes or other bugs to a significant degree. There are ants, and you must make sure not to stand still in their way or sit in them, but other than that the bugs and other “creepy crawly” factor wasn’t bad given the humid, densely forested climate. The total trek to reach the chimps was about 2 ½ hours. The other group had arrived about 10 minutes before we did. We saw Abby, a female chimp, and her two babies, and it was magnificent. They were high in the tree top canopy in a nest, having spent the morning eating. The babies were playing in the trees as Abby settled in, enjoying the view of Lake Tanganyika, totally stretched out with hands and foot resting on tree limbs. It sounds cliché, but it’s amazing to see how similar chimps are to humans. Their facial expressions, use of hands, and the way the mother hugged and showed affection to her children. We were able to spend one hour with the chimps, watching and photographing, before the TANAPA guide gently and politely told us our time was up and we needed to head back to camp.
Bernard, our guide, produced a small sandwich and yet another bottle of water for us once we were away from the chimps which was enough to get us to the bottom and into our swim suits for a well-deserved swim in the lake before lunch.
As I write this I’m looking out over the beach, as the staff are preparing our boat for an afternoon cruise, snorkel and kayak expedition on the lake. This is a dream location for people who are up for some adventure with the trek and appreciate the activity (or relaxation!) of the lake. It’s exotic and remote. One of the only places in the world where you can see the chimpanzees in their natural setting, and flying halfway across the world and trekking like crazy through the forest to see them makes your hour with the chimps a very rewarding moment in life. For anyone who is in love with Africa or wildlife, this is a place you MUST see.
There is an “out of commission” dhow boat on the shore, which is being made into a Moroccan-style Beach Lounge. This will certainly be on my radar of top beach bars in the world and stay tuned for photos in the near future!
The camp has excellent charging for cameras and computers in the tents. There is a plug in each tent. Speaking of cameras, this is a humid area and it’s a good idea to protect electronics with silica packets to absorb moisture in the cases.
This afternoon we boarded the boat and headed south to a beautiful cove where we snorkeled with many beautifully colored cichlids (bright blue, yellow pink dots, etc), kayaked and fished. When that was done we stood in the water with a drink in hand and talked until the sun went down. When we got back we were met on the beach with dinner and an authentic South African beach braai (complete with Boerwursts!). The evening again was spent around the fire marveling at what a magical place Mahale is.
For people looking to spend the end of their African holiday with a little R&R and still have a totally unique and active wildlife experience, Mahale Mountain National Park and Kungwe Beach Lodge is the place. It’s a wow. Menno and Adel, the managers, are young, enthusiastic and committed to running this camp to the highest standards. Having managed previous camps in Namibia, South Africa and Zambia, they are well versed in what today’s adventurous and discerning traveler is looking for. Some of the “sneak peaks’ they gave me one month in to their term; Moroccan-themed Beach Lounge as mentioned, lunch at the snorkeling cove with feet in the water, and overnights up in the mountains with the chimps. Keep Kungwe Beach Lodge on your radar for sure and stay tuned for more!
May 18, 2009: Gombe Forest Lodge
This morning we had a leisurely morning and made our way to the Dhow back to the Mahale airstrip, where our plane waited. Again, we marveled at the unique Mahale airstrip and soared out over Lake Tanganyika en route to Kigoma, where we would catch yet another boat to Gombe Stream National Park. The flight was short from Mahale to Gombe, about 25 minutes, and we landed at Kigoma airport. Kigoma is really a large village, with sprawling small African houses and communities at the endge of the great lake. We had lunch at the Kigoma Hilltop Hotel and then enjoyed a little city tour, including the lively and labyrinth-like market, the David Livingstone Museum (one of the saddest little museums I’ve ever seen, any want to donate curator services?!) and a tour of a top performing school built, sponsored and run by Mbali Mbali (the family is from Kigoma originally and wanted to give back to this remote corner of Tanzania). Then, we boarded Mbali Mbali’s speedboat and cruised from Kigoma to Gombe Forest Lodge as the sun set over the Congo Mountains. The trip in the speedboat is an optional upgrade, and takes about 1 hour and seats 16. The regular dhow takes about 2 hours. We arrived into camp (which reminds me of a lodge in the Midwestern forest where I spent my youth) and were delighted to find cool drinks and some amazing appetizers (fig and cream cheese wrapped in bacon, eggplant chips, olive plate, etc) compliments of John, the new Mbali Mbali chef who is going around and training the kitchen’s of all the properties. I can honestly say that the two days of food at Gombe, thanks to John, included the BEST food I’ve ever had while on safari. Dinner that night was am amazing fish, with reduction sauce and shredded crispy veggies.
Gombe Forest Lodge is a small camp with only 6 tents. The quaintness is appealing, and as it’s the only camp in the park provides an added level of exclusivity.
May 19, 2009: Gombe Forest Lodge
Last night was a little muggy in the tents, but we awoke fresh and ready for another chimp trek! We’d been warned that Gombe was much steeper than Mahale, but typically shorter treks to find the chimps. After another amazing meal compliments of Jonathan the chef, we headed out in the TANAPA boat (due to the high levels of the lake we couldn’t take the Mbali Mbali speedboat to the dock) and about 20 minutes later arrived at the starting point for the chimp trek. This is also the main park gate and the base of the Jane Goodall research institute. We collected our guides and were off. True to their word the initial climb was steep, but we’d had word from the trackers that a mother and two young chimps were about 30 minutes away, so we wanted to go as quickly as possible. After an initial steep climb we leveled off and that was honestly the worst of the hike. In Gombe the TANAPA trackers don’t have pangas like in Mahale since the paths are much more well-established. The downfall of not having to endure the sometimes difficulty “bush whack” is that you have to wait for the chimps to emerge from the bush. (However, the bush isn’t as thick with undergrowth as in Mahale, so it was possible to veer slightly off the path for a chimp sighting). Pretty soon Tanga and her two children, Tabora and Tom, showed up on the path. They were eating and the kids were tumbling and playing around. We followed them up the path a bit then they went slightly into the bush. Here we went in a bit and Tom gave us quite a show. He was mock charging us, but at 7 years of age he’s still quite small. He was just “practicing” for when he’s grown up.
At Mahale you have to wear face masks, to reduce transmission of any diseases to the chimps, and vice versa. Apparently there is conflicting research as to how effective this really is, and in Gombe you don’t have to wear the masks when in the presence of the chimps. It’s nice not to have to wear the masks (since you’re all sweaty and the masks tend to really fog up cameras and binoculars) but of course no one really minded in Mahale since it’s for the protection of the chimps.
After they moved on we decided to move on to the Kikombe Waterfall and perhaps run into the chimps on our way out. As luck would have it, we were at the “feeding station” where researchers used to feed the chimps bananas each day until one of the chimps contracted polio from village bananas and they had to discontinue, when the chimps showed up there. We had about 30 more minutes to watch them up in the trees settling down for their afternoon nap. Chimps feed in the morning and around 11 settle into a nest in the trees for a rest, ad we’d seen twice now. They resurface for dinner around 3 or 4. Tabora the 3 year old was swinging from the trees and generally busy, while her 7 year ofd brother settled n for his nap. Overall this was another fantastic chimp experience and a MUCH easier hike that we’d had at Mahale. Go figure.
Overall Gombe is a more serious/scientific Chimp tracking experience given the presence of the researchers through the parks and the Jane Goodall Institute and since travelers can track 2 time per days, where Mahale is one.
After lunch and a short rest, we headed back to the park for a talk from the Jane Goodall Institute and a second trek of the day. We were looking at Jane Goodall’s Gombe home, when all of a sudden two large, old male chimps, Pax and Zues, decided to stroll down near the ranger station for a snack. So THIS was clearly going to be the easiest trek of the week as we hurried down the path and sat down right near the station to watch these boys have a snack. This was truly some amazing luck!
This evening we watched the amazing sun set over the Congo Mountains for the last time, and enjoyed drinks on the beach around the fire. Then on to another stellar meal compliments of John and off to bed in preparation for an early start tomorrow.
May 20, 2009: International Departure
The chimp experience in Western Tanzania, for the wildlife lover, active traveler or returning African traveler, when combined with safari, is truly one of the most special experiences. Lake Tanganyika is massive, clear, calm and peaceful, and the chimps are truly something to travel half way across the world to see!
We flew back to Arusha and spent the afternoon doing a little shopping then repacking, showering and off to the airport for the long flight home.
Note: We have photos of all the properties and rooms. In this trip report we included a few “highlight” images but please do email for more images of rooms, properties or anything else and we’re happy
