PrintMozambique: Nampula, Veranda, Gorongosa National Park :: October 2009
Trip Report
By: Mallory Corbett
Monday, October 05, 2009: Nampula
Today was a day in transit. We took the LAM flight from Johannesburg to Maputo, where we saw a little bit of the city and had lunch, and connected to another LAM flight to Nampula. I was told that LAM airlines were nicknamed ‘Late And Maybe’ so I was expecting the worst. Perhaps because of that, I was pleasantly surprised. Yes, both of our flights were late but nothing beyond the norms of a typical flight in Africa. Plus, I loved the cute little hats they wear!
On arrival in Nampula, we were met by Bart Otto, co-owner of Coral Lodge 15.41 and enjoyed a nice dinner at a Chinese restaurant in town. Good thing we had Bart to translate because not very many people that I have met speak English so far in the country. Right away you can see how un-touched this country is by tourism. It makes it a little more difficult to get what you need but I think it is also what makes this country so special.
Tuesday, October 06, 2009: Coral Lodge 15.41
It is about an hour and forty-five minutes by car to Ilha de Mozambique, a fantastic town rich in culture and history. Ilha was also named a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1991. Here you can see old, dilapidated buildings including a hospital that is still functioning, noisy fish markets full of the catch of the day, busy markets housing loads of colorful vegetables along with the bark they mix with water and put on their face as a mask to shield them from the sun and the beach where people collect shells or anything else they can use to make a living. Walking along the streets we got a chance to meet and talk with some of the people living there (mostly children). They danced with us, posed for pictures and told us what the important monuments of Ilha were. The very educated speak a little English, with some schooling most speak Portuguese and the uneducated speak their local language. There is an election coming up at the end of the month so people were marching down the streets singing, dancing and banging drums. It is a fantastic experience to come to this little beach town as you really feel the narration of what happened here so many years ago.
There are a few different ways to get to Coral Lodge 15.41. You can fly from your previous destination, Johannasburg, Dar es Salaam ect., into Nampula (if coming from Joburg you have to connect at either Beira or Maputo). Once in Nampula, the lodge can pick you up by car and drive you to Ilha. From here, it is possible to take a 10 minute speed boat trip and land right on the shore of the lodge. The other way is once in Nampula you can charter a plane and land in an airstrip near Ilha and take the boat over. If ever the sea is acting up and you cannot get across by boat it is also possible to drive to Coral Lodge 15.41. It is actually a nice drive through a few villages and in some areas the streets are lined with big, vibrant mango trees.
What makes Coral Lodge 15.41 is the location. The lodge is situated at the tip of a peninsula with the waves of the Indian Ocean crashing in on the banks of one side and a quite lagoon on the other. Each of the 10 villas has a view of the water, whether it is the ocean or the lagoon. The main area and dining room is right at the end with a pool in front that looks out over the ocean and the lagoon. The lagoon is great for swimming and snorkeling and the water is clear and warm. The food at Coral Lodge is fantastic! The fresh catch of tuna, crab, lobster etc. are purchased that morning in the markets and served up that day with creative salads garnished with green mango and ginger… just to give your taste buds and idea.
While here, you get the sense that you are so far away from everything. You can partake in so many activities: snorkeling, deep sea fishing, diving, swimming in the lagoon, day trips to Ilha or do absolutely nothing but sit in a sleeper chair on the beach and listen to the sounds of the ocean.
Bart and Alexandra Otto, owners and managers of the property, are very accommodating. They still have a ways to go with construction of the place and I am excited to come back and see it when it is all finished.
Wednesday, October 7, 2009: Tivoli Hotel
Waking up to the sounds of the waves and the sun trickling in through the windows is such a great feeling, especially after a week in the bush waking up before the sun in a hurry to catch the animals in their prime.
Today is another transfer day. Since the speed boat doesn’t have a motor yet we took the dhow to Ilha and then drove to Nampula to catch our flight to Beira. The ride over the deep turquoise water was beautiful. We watched the local people fish in their dhows and dugout canoes; the ocean was full busy with people just earning a living. After a quick one hour flight from Nampula to Beira, we stayed in at Hotel Tivoli to get a good night sleep before heading off to Gorongosa National Park.
Thursday, October 8, 2009: Gorongosa National Park
Today we were given a short tour of the city by a local man. He showed us old Portuguese hotels that were once ornate in their prime and now are dilapidated and inhabited by loads of people. The city is dusty as well as uninviting and if possible an overnight in Beira should be avoided.
On our way out to the bush we picked up a few more members of the travel trade from South Africa and the UK. What guests would normally do is after getting off the flight they would be greeted by a member of the Explore Gorongosa staff. From the airport it is about three hours in an air-conditioned vehicle through the country side and into Gorongosa National Park. The owners of Explore Gorongosa, Rob and Jos Janisch as well as a few of the staff are there to welcome guests into camp.
Explore Gorongosa is a luxury eco camp consisting of four tents complete with outdoor bucket showers and “earth closets” (long drop toilets). Attention to detail is a concept that this camp has truly taken to heart. Small special effects surprise you around every corner making every guest feel very welcome.
Friday, October 8, 2009: Explore Gorongosa
I was very impressed with the game drives in Goronogsa. We saw several animals including various species of antelope, lion, elephant, serval cats and civet cats, a porcupine, tons of birds and there sure is no shortage of warthog. The animals are increasing at an amazing pace and it is great to know that it is only going to get better.
An afternoon swim at Chitengo, the park’s head quarters, was absolutely necessary as it was 106 degrees today! I truly understand the notion of suicide month in this area of Africa throughout October. I would very much recommend coming to this region during the months of June, July and August. If guests are looking for a completely exclusive experience April is also great month as Explore Gorongosa is the only camp operating in the park during the entire month.
Saturday, October 9, 2009: Explore Gorongosa
The morning started with a walking safari during which we were given a chance to really appreciate the park. Everywhere we turned the surroundings changed. From forests of palms to forests of neon green fever trees and then before you know it you are starring out over vast Serengeti-like plains dotted with game. In fact there are 54 different eco systems in the park which is located on the end of the rift valley making it extra distinctive. We took a break on a large fallen down tree and the question came up, “What other park does Gorongosa remind you of?” and no one could think of any other park in Africa that resembled it. It is truly unique.
In the afternoon we went to Chitengo for a history lesson. We met the park’s director of Communications, Vasco Galante, who gave us an overview of all that took place years ago.
In 1965 Gorongosa became a National Park, the first in Mozambique. At that point there were over 25,000 tourists a year and when you think about tourism over 40 years ago that is a very high number. Celebrities such as John Wayne and astronauts who had walked on the moon frequented the park. There was an abundance of animals and they called it “the place where Noah left the ark.” Then in the ’70’s after Mozambique gained their independence a civil war started to brew. Gorongosa National Park was the center of the battle field between the two parties and nearly all of the animals were killed and eaten.
From 1994 – 1995 the government tried to rehabilitate the park. They put together a team of former soldiers who did what they could but it all came down to money and everyone gave up thinking it was hopeless. Then in 2004 an American by the name of Greg Carr came in. He worked with the Mozambique government and has developed a plan to restore the park to be completely sustainable over the next 20 years.
I had the pleasure of meeting Mr. Greg Carr. He told us a little bit more about the process he has developed and the next steps of the project. He hoped to be done with all animal re-introductions in five years and “let nature take its course; the less intervention the better”. There are over 130 rangers conducting anti-poaching efforts but he feels that tourism is the best anti-poaching there is. The traps poachers set have to be checked every few days, people can’t run back and forth to check their traps if there are tourists driving around. 35 snares where found in the area around Explore Gorongosa last year, this year there was only one and it was rusty, likely to be missed from the year prior. Another important section of the plan is employing local people. Locals who work in the park will not poach as they know the animals are important to their job. Also, they are more likely to tell on others when they have a vested interest.
Mr. Carr wants to make sure that the park will be accessible to the people of Mozambique; therefore, park fees will be kept as low as $8 and there will always be camping and affordable accommodation at Chitengo. The park will consist of 5 operating areas where private entities can operate as well. This will create a range of accommodation within the park based on guest’s needs and budget. There will be no self driving allowed unless a park guide accompanies them in their vehicle.
Meeting Greg Carr put the whole process into perspective. It is going to be a difficult project but the best of the best are behind it 100%.
After our visit with Mr. Carr, we drive across the park to the lake that the old Hippo house used to look out over. It was famous back in the day and safari goers would sip gin and tonics while looking out over the lake watching the abundance of animals that used to reside in the park. The footings of the building still stand and we had our own sundowners right where many did years ago.
Explore Gorongosa is a special place and it truly unique. It is ever changing and ever improving. I feel lucky to be a part of the action and the development process. I hope to get back to see the progress in a few years time.
