PrintJuly 12, 2008 :: International flight and transfer in London
And so another African adventure begins…
En route to Arusha, I had a long layover at London Heathrow so I decided to purchase a pass to a lounge online (which I read about in Conde Nast Traveler last month.) It was easy enough to purchase the pass for $32 from www.LoungePass.com. You have to know what Terminal you fly out of for international flights, but easy enough. London Heathrow’s lounge is a Holideck lounge. My $32 apparently only gets me 3 hours here. The lounge is nice enough, but the food provided is essentially small packs of pretzels like you get on the airplane. However, there is a selection of cold, “free” drinks. I wasn’t able to get their free Internet to work. Would I book a pass ahead of time again? Probably not. If on the way home I’m feeling tired and can’t find a comfortable place to chill outside, I may consider purchasing a pass again at the door (which is a little more expensive). The chairs are comfy and there are ample plugs for charging laptops, ipods, phones, etc.
The Kenya Airways flight (KQ 101) was 100% full to Nairobi, which is a good sign for us in the tourism business!
July 13, 2008 :: Arusha
Upon arrival in Nairobi, our flight was parked remotely and we had to wait for about 30 minutes on the place until the appropriate stairs, etc were brought to the flight so we could disembark. It had been a few years since I’d flown into JKIA, but had never quite seen such as scene of people milling about and walking through the airfield. Welcome to Africa! Boarding the Precision Air connection to Arusha (Kilimanjaro, JRO) was also via walking out to the plane. The gates at JKIA are clearly marked, but not all of the screens showed the gate number, so travelers must be sure to seek out the information and not wait for someone to herd them in the right direction, as is possible in the US.
On the flight from Nairobi to Arusha you do have stunning views of Mt. Meru and Mt. Kilimanjaro from the sky. Be sure to sit on the left side of the plane for the best views of Kili.
The Arusha airport is very small, but I was immediately struck by how clean everything is, and how kind and soft-spoken the people are… even the cab drivers trying to get you to ride with them are quiet and polite! My luggage was not on the flight with me, but I later learned that it’s quite common for Precision Air to not carry all the luggage if the aircraft is on the heavy side. There were several people on the flight who did not find their luggage in Arusha. My luggage was on the flight that afternoon.
We headed direct to the Ngurdutu Mountain Lodge, which is about 15 minutes away from JRO. The staff is lovely, and very accommodating. When I checked in 15 minutes after breakfast ended but three hours before lunch started they jumped to accommodate my empty belly!
The Ngurdutu Mountain Lodge is set in an old coffee plantation, and surrounded by coffee plants, banana trees, etc. It’s a large property which caters to the conference market. It’s an ok option if no availability exists at Moivaro, The Arusha Hotel or other properties which cater to the safari market. Hot water is spotty and the beds are not the most comfortable. All meals are large buffets with continental and African fare. This is not a property that Choroa routinely uses.
July 14, 2008 :: Arusha
This morning we arrived at the Arusha International Airport (JRO) to pick up one more in our group. The airport is about 45 minutes away from Arusha town.
We inspected the following properties:
• The Arusha Hotel: This hotel is in the center of Arusha and buzzing with safari activity. The rooms are comfortable, standard hotel rooms and the food is buffet style, and quite good. They have 4 suites available, and about 80 rooms in total.
• Moivaro Coffee Lodge: This property is just outside of town and accessed via a bumpy road cut into the hillside. It’s a stunning setting, with a pool, lovely common area and a nice bar. Décor is stylish African and the service is lovely. There are two rooms per unit, each with a private outdoor seating area. They have family rooms where a door adjoins the two rooms per unit. This is a great place to spend the first day after international travel to rest and enjoy the beautiful gardens. There are 2k of walking trails on the property and guides also offer 2-3 hour walks outside of the property up into the hills, passing through local villages en route.
July 15, 2008 :: Tarangire
After an early morning start, we headed through Arusha and headed west towards Tarangire. The road is very good out to the park, and consists mainly of safari traffic. The drive was about 2 hours to the Tarangire main gate. This drive is very comfortable and easy, which is why most tourists opt to drive this leg of their safari even if they choose to fly others. Here there are clean restrooms and a nice place to stretch legs while the guides sort out park fees.
Tarangire has LOTS of elephants this time of year. We also saw an impressive pride of lion, and plenty of zebra, wildebeest, Cape Buffalo and giraffe. The swamp, which seemed removed from the crowds, is a stunning backdrop for great game viewing and photography.
July is a great time of year to be in Tarangire. It’s dry this time of year so many animals come into the park to find water, which is permanent in the park. July – October is the best time of year for Tarangire.
We inspected the following Tarangire properties:
• Tarangire Safari Lodge: What the rooms lack in style the lodge makes up in views and wildlife encounters! When we were there the property was full of elephant wandering in between the tents. The accommodations are pretty basic, so for a certain type of client only.
• Choroa Luxury Safaris Tarangire Camp Site: We enjoyed a picnic lunch at the special campsite Choroa uses in Tarangire. This camp site is away from the crowds and in a stunning location under two huge sausage trees.
• Tarangire Sopa Lodge: This is a classic example of a large African lodge. The rooms are a bit dingy and the lodge, while comfortable, is cold feeling. With 75 rooms, there is nothing very personal about this property.
• Oliver’s Camp: This camp (which is semi-permanent now, hoping to become permanent in the near future) is a great example of an East African tented safari camp. The management was very nice and things seemed to be running smoothly despite the fact they were running at full capacity. This property does walking safaris in the area as well.
We spent the night at Tarangire River Camp, a new property just outside the park, and a short drive from the main road through Maasai country. Tarangire River Camp is perched up on the edge of a dry river bank in a private concession. This property had an immediate warm and cozy feeling. After a briefing in the main lodge, we were escorted to our rooms to freshen up for dinner. The beds here were VERY comfortable, and most rooms have 2 queen beds draped with netting. These rooms are up off the ground on stilts. The bathrooms are large, with an area to set a bag and hang some clothes. The bathrooms could use a bit of freshening up, but overall they were perfectly comfortable and the hot shower was welcome at the end of that dusty day. Dinner was a plated meal served to all guests at the same time. That evening I was awakened by “munch munch munching” near my head, and I quickly discovered that three giraffe were eating the trees around my tent. I got up and watched them in the bright moonlight. Eventually they were spooked and silently ran off into the bush.
July 16, 2008 :: Manyara
We set out early for Lake Mayara and onwards to Ngorongoro. Driving from Tarangire River Camp, we arrived around lunch time. Inspections along the way included:
• Kikoti: We received a relatively unwelcome reception here. They were full with one of their weekly big Tauk groups. We didn’t have a chance to see a room. The camp is located a long bumpy ride to the park and is not in the best location. Better options exist.
• Tree Tops: This property was stunning, but a bit sterile feeling. They have a really nice pool which I’m sure would be welcome during the dry and ho season. The tents offer large rooms with modern bathrooms and the management was very nice.
Lake Manyara offers a different vegetation vs. Tarangire and Serengeti, and is a convenient stopping point between the two parks. We did see a spectacular Leopard in a tree, as well as the famed Lake Manyara Tree Climbing lions. However, the park was crowded (nearly 20 vehicles around the leopard!) and quite small.
• Kirarumu: This tented property has stunning views of Lake Manyara National Park. With a great view from a large bar area, it’s a nice overnight stop between Tarangire/Manyara and Ngorongoro/Serengeti. The rooms were basic, but affordability makes it a viable option for some. There is a relatively steep hill to climb to the top, so probably not best for elderly.
Overnight at Tloma Lodge in Karatu. This stunning property was a perfect resting point before the camping in the Serengeti. This relatively new lodge is tastefully decorated in African chic, and the rooms are huge, with fireplaces and hairdryers. The food here was some of the best on the entire trip. The setting is stunning, with the view, their gardens and their pool. The lush vegetation also offers a unique setting between the game parks. The staff were also very kind and efficient.
July 17, 2008 :: Ngorongoro and Serengeti
One thing about the Arusha, Karatu, Ngorongoro area… it was cold this time of year!
Inspections this morning included:
• Plantation Lodge: This property was amazing. The rooms were huge, building new bar area. New family suite. Offer day hiking in the hills adjacent, making this worth 2 nights. The accommodations are stunning and the décor is modern African. The bathrooms are very nice, with large showers, very clean feeling. They just completed a new family suite, with a fun balcony for children’s sleeping area. This could easily be a two-night stay.
• Ngorongro Farm House: The property is bigger than I expected. This is a good option for a one night stop.. It’s a working coffee plantation, and the smell of fresh roasting coffee welcomes you. The rooms are slightly older, with the same basic set up as Tloma.
The drive to the crater was quick. After descending into the crater we stopped for a picnic lunch at the official picnic site. I would recommend stopping there for restrooms only and then proceed onwards for picnic lunch in car away from the other vehicles.
The Ngorongoro Crater is certainly unique. The views are stunning. We did see some wildlife in the crater, but didn’t have much time to really explore, so while I wasn’t overly impressed with the quantity of game perhaps there is more in other areas. On a driving itinerary this is a convenient stop, but if time does not allow for the crater on an itinerary it’s not a huge loss. This area is quite crowded, which detracts from the overall experience.
• Ngorongoro Serena Lodge: While ascending the exit side of the crater we stopped to inspect the Ngorongoro Serena Lodge. This property is very nice and in the same style as most of the other Serenas. They have wireless internet in each of their rooms, and a large common area for eating and drinking. It looked quite full. Of course, the property offers stunning views.
After the Ngorongoro Crater we drove onwards to the Serengeti. This ride was LONG (about 4 hours) and bumpy. En route it is possible to visit a Maasai village as well as Olduvai Gorge, though we didn’t have time to do so.
The Choroa staff provided us with a warm welcome at camp, with juice and warm towels and then on to drinks by the fire. Sitting by the fire that night we all agreed that moment was a highlight of the trip!
Dinner is a lovely affair, with Ali the waiter helping us along the way. Meals consist of meat, veggie, rice, soup, rolls, salad and dessert and there is always plenty to go around. It’s amazing what Chef George is able to produce out of the “kitchen tent”. The meals in camp were absolutely delicious.
July 18, 2008 :: Serengeti
Today, for inspections, we drove from Central Serengeti to the Western Corridor. This was about 240 km round trip and a long drive! Surprisingly there was not much game at all in the Western Corridor. This is where the migration in Tanzania is at it’s peak, but we didn’t see much game until we got back to camp at the end of the day in the central part of the Serengeti.
• Mbalageti: Bigger than I expected but very comfortable. This is in a spectacular setting in the Western Corridor of the Serengeti, and offers stunning amenities including a great pool, plunge pool, a few areas for cocktail parties and private dinners, and a spa. The suite, at about $900 net for the whole room, is a steal and perfect for honeymooners. Nice management. This would be a nice way to end a safari after 3 or 4 nights in the luxury mobile camp.
• Kirawira: Very colonial feeling and appears to need a bit of a freshening up. The property has a great pool area and amazing views!
Each day on safari we were sent with a box lunch, either from the properties or from the Choroa camp. This allowed us to drive further and not have to go back to camp for lunch. It was always great fun stopping under the shade of an acacia tree and enjoying a peaceful lunch in the middle of the bush.
Leaving the Western Corridor the tetse flies were horrible. It was just one patch, and other than that the bugs were not really an issue the entire trip.
Near the Choroa camp, in the Seronera area, we saw a large pride of lion and as I write this I can hear hyenas.
July 19, 2008 :: Serengeti
This morning, breakfast was laid back and we talked of the hippo and hyena who both checked out camp last night, and enjoyed the early morning sun as we had our breakfast. Another clear day, so looking forward to the warm African heat!
Breakfast in camp consists of fresh fruit, cereal, toast and your choice of eggs, bacon, sausage and English beans. Certainly plenty to get you through to lunch!
We consulted the map (I found a great map of the Serengeti, available in some of the larger hotels gift shops, Published by Maco Editions LLC, info@gtmaps.com) to see that today’s journey would take us about 160 round trip. The scale of the Serengeti is amazing, and it is truly vast. When away from the main road one does not feel crowded by other cars, even in peak season.
• Mbuze Mawe: This camp, like the other Serena properties, was very nice but lacked a certain character. They were adding wireless internet to all rooms, and are planning on building a swimming pool and 9 more rooms. It’s in a lovely setting and would be a memorable stop on any safari.
• Migration Camp: I would not entrust clients to this management team under any circumstances. The management was incredibly rude. They for one reason or another were not expecting us for the inspection, and after we drove for 3 hours and were not allowed to even see a room. They said we could look around the main area and then show ourselves to the door. With plenty of lovely properties in the Serengeti, there is no reason to patronize such as poorly run establishment.
Today we had our game drive in the Northern part of the Serengeti and the game was outstanding. It was a beautiful sunny day, and we saw 2 cheetah (one with a fresh kill), lion, and many others. There were many small babies. We drove up to the Lobo area. This seems to be where the game is the best this time of year.
Sitting around the campfire with our sundowners this evening, we agreed that we saw more of Tanzania in one week than most people see in several trips! We certainly did a lot of driving in Tanzania, but the driving was very tolerable and interesting in Tanzania (vs. what would be advisable in Kenya for example). Drive times are short, the paved roads are very good (with the exception of a very bumpy and dusty unpaved road from Ngorongoro to Serengeti). To drive West and fly East back to Arusha is a very viable option.
This evening in camp we had a special farewell BBQ dinner, complete with lamb kabobs, chicken and pork on the grill brought out next to the mess tent. George, the chef, even made a yummy cake (over a camp fire!) and we toasted a great safari with champagne.
July 20, 2008 :: Depart Arusha
The flight from the Serengeti back to Arusha was full, and it was busy at the airstrip. We flew Regional Air. Travelers load their own luggage onto the plane, with help from the guides of course. But it was a bit chaotic. Regional Air does not seem to care about the 15kg weight limit, but we were on a large plane and it may be an issue on the smaller aircraft. Arriving in Arusha was also chaotic, with travelers just grabbing their luggage off the plan and again making their way across the airfield and into the arrivals gate.
Dixon and Emma with Choroa safaris were waiting for us at the gate with the vehicle, as Themmy left us at the airstrip to drive the vehicle back to Arusha.
The Choroa staff certainly looked sharp, especially in comparison to many of the guides we came across while on Safari. Their clean dress and Choroa-logo shirts and hats looked professional and indicated “luxury”.
We transferred from the Arusha airport (domestic) to the international JRO airport. The drive was about one hour.
During my trip in Tanzania I was using the new international blackberry mobile phone, which overall worked very well! In Tanzania there are 2 mobile networks including Cel Tel and Vodacom. Only Vodacom has the email (data) technology, so that is the only time you can email from the blackberry. Arusha is covered, and I was able to connect at least once per day while on safari. We would usually drive through a Vodacom area and the emails would download. Even on game drives! Phone worked on either service.
Tanzania is very different from Kenya. More driving is involved and the Serengeti was so huge that game was a little harder to spot than in some of Kenya’s parks, like the Maasai Mara. Most people seem to do longer game drives as a result, and it’s important to keep in mind when planning a safari where the game will be at that time of the year. That is a great thing about Choroa’s camp, as we can move the location depending on the time of year. The culture is also different. Tanzania is less “Westernized” than Kenya and other parts of Africa. The people are lovely. The parks seem well maintained.
The experience with Choroa was exceptional. The staff at camp were amazing and Themmy is quite simply a great guy.
