PrintMonday, October 12, 2009: Mara Explorer
I arrived in Nairobi at 5:30 in the morning and went directly from NBO to Wilson Airport. Here I met the group of travel trade professionals who stayed at the new Tribe hotel in Nairobi the night before. It is just an hour’s flight on a small 10 passenger Cessna aircraft into the Maasi Mara. The pilot had to clear the runway by flying low across it once as there were zebra and wildebeest covering it. That did the trick and we had a nice landing. We were met by many Mara Explorer staff and made the short five minute journey into camp. We re-fueled with a delicious breakfast and headed out for our first game drive of the Mara. We saw lion, leopard, elephant, giraffe, tons of antelope and zebra. You just can’t beat game drives in the Mara. Animals are so used to vehicles you can drive right up to them and they don’t even flinch.
At the end of our afternoon game drive we were taken for the perfect African sundowner. We pulled up to a giant acacia tree with a bon fire and a bar behind it covered in red Maasai cloth. Here we had “bitings” and drinks while watching a very African sun set over the horizon. The night ended with star and Jupiter gazing through a telescope with the Massai and a wonderful dinner. The night was cool and warm water bottles under the duvets were a very welcome surprise.
Tuesday, October 13, 2009: Mara Explorer
Today was filled with some of the most fantastic game sightings I’ve seen in Africa yet! We saw lion, cheetah and leopard all in one morning and enjoyed a boxed picnic breakfast out in the bush. The afternoon was equally exciting with a leopard eating her kill (wildebeest) under a tree. Paul anticipated the leopard’s behavior and positioned our vehicle to the best spot for photographs. You could hear the bones crunching as she devoured her lunch.
Tonight, back at camp, Paul gave us a presentation on the cycles of the seasons in the Mara. He explained to us and showed us pictures of what to expect during every month of the year in the park.
After the very informative presentation we were informed that there were hippos out in the river and we were to go look at them. We were tricked into walking around the main area to a clearing which lead to a path lit by luminaries. The path escorted us to a big fire, Barbeque and candle-lit tables. We were so surprised! We had a lovely dinner in the bush and when finished we heard grunting and screaming sounds come from behind the trees. A while slew of Maasai emerged singing and dancing for us. We joined in and participated in the traditional routine done after just killing a lion. The night was really special and the people, the staff, chefs, Maasai, and everyone else we came across at Mara Explorer are so friendly and memorable.
Wednesday, October 14, 2009: Galdessa Camp
Just to add to our list of extraordinary sightings, we drove but two minutes and came across two lions basically in camp. Then, about two minutes later, we came across four lions eating wildebeest. The growls and the crunching were fascinating and they tore the animal to bits in only a half an hour’s time. What made it sighting extra special was that we were the only vehicle around for most of time. That is one downfall of the Maasi Mara, there are so many vehicles. That afternoon, we got word from a friend of Paul’s that wildebeest were following the migration and crossing the river. At this particular crossing point there is not enough room for many vehicles. Other camps must have received the word as well because they flew by us, leaving us to eat their dust. Those same cars flew into the area and scared the wildebeest, causing them to run the opposite way and put crossing the river on hold until they felt comfortable. This is a clear reminder how important it is to utilize properties with outstanding guiding reputations (and don’t use ones that do not have good guiding reputations) and help to further the continued professionalism and protect these delicate ecosystems.
On our way back to camp we were tricked again. Paul told us that they had seen Olive (the leopard) with her cubs. We went in to see if we could get a look as well. We pulled into a beautiful area by the river and saw a few cars lined up which usually meant something great was sitting there. Well, it was something great but not Olive and her cubs that we were expecting. A table was all set by a river of hippos and Shadrick, Samuel and Godfrey were standing there ready to serve cereals, fruit, beacon and sausage, beans and made to order eggs (including delicious omelets). We were so surprised again and it was a very special end to our time at Mara Explorer.
From the Mara Explorer airstrip we took another small plane to the Manyani airstrip and into Tsavo West National Park. We were met by Patrick and taken across by car into Tsavo East National Park, the largest park in Kenya. The area is much different from the Mara. The soil is really red versus the black cotton soil of the Mara, the topography is much more rocky and mountainous then the plains of the Mara and there were many more trees than the scattered acacias in the Mara. The area looked as though it would be impossible to see game in such a cluttered area but even on our drive to camp we saw plenty of elephant, giraffe, antelopes and other game. All of Kenya has been experiencing heavy drought. It was less apparent in the Mara then it is in Tsavo East. The area is really dry and the trees and bushes all look dead and bare. The park has lost nearly 10% of their elephant population because of lack of food. However, we have seemed to have brought the rain in because it rained as we were coming in and all night long. It is not enough to revive the park but it is a start and a glimmer of hope for more rain to come.
Galdessa camp is beautiful. The main area as well as the 12 tents plus Private Galdessa (consisting of two tents, a honeymoon suite and a private main area) are all situated along the Galana River. The tents are on raised wooden decks and boast beautiful views of elephant, giraffe, and hippo including the resident William Wilberforce that frequent the river.
We got a feel for the area with a walking safari alongside the river. We saw hippo, elephant and even a leopard up in a tree. We identified animal tracks and poo and practiced our Swahili as we marched along. The scenery was beautiful and so different from where we had come. We the came across white couches set up on the rocks facing the sun set. A whole bar was set up in the giant rocks and various bitings were served. It is a fantastic spot for sundowners and a very special place to rest after a walk.
The owners of Galdessa (and Alfijiri), Fabrizio and Maraca Molinaro are Italian, so naturally the food is great. After four courses of dinner, we had to be rolled back to our tents for a rest after such an exciting day.
Thursday, October 15, 2009: Galdessa Camp
The rain and cool breeze made for a very cozy night’s sleep. The beds and linins at Galdessa are very comfortable. A wake up call came with fresh hot coffee as we set out for another walking safari at a different point of the river. On the drive to the walking safari site, we saw two young cheetahs sitting on the road. They posed for us as we took pictures and eventually they walked away to carry on with their morning. The rock formations at the walking site were incredible and a rushing river flowed through them. We saw prints in the sand of all animals including, leopard, lion, crocodile, hippo and elephant. We saw plenty of crocodile in the river and tons of various species of birds. The rocks were quite slippery and some areas are steep. I wouldn’t recommend this walk to those who have difficulty walking and different walks can be arranged.
On our way back to camp, Patrick spotted a ‘hyena’. He backed up and had us get out of the vehicle for a better look. He was so excited and dramatically pointing out were the head was. None of us could see it! Then he turned us all to the other side and there in the river bed was a table all set for a bush breakfast. Emmanuel was there to serve us a hot English breakfast and fresh fruit. The birds chirped on either side of our table as we discussed the sightings of the morning. The whole morning was a great start to the day!
Finally, we got a chance to have some down time throughout the day before heading out on an afternoon game drive.
While we didn’t see too much game this evening, it was nice to drive around and get an idea of the vastness and varying topography of the park. Dinner that night was fantastic again. Emanuel was such a great host with such a great sense of humor. After wishing William Wilberforce a “la la salama” we turned in for a great nice sleep.
Friday, October 16, 2009: Alfijiri Villas
On our game drive this morning we saw a waterbuck that had just given birth, probably no more than a half an hour before we got there. The baby was trying to walk and kept stumbling and falling around. It was really a spectacular sight to see.
We arrived at Alfijiri after dark. The four hour drive from Tsavo quickly turned into seven with an added game drive and two shopping stops. After a long, luxuriously hot shower we came to the living area for drinks and oven fired pizza. As I said, the owners, Maraca and Fabrizio Molinaro are Italians so there isn’t the slightest bit of doubt that your breakfast, lunch and dinner will be nothing short of perfect. And that is exactly how I describe our dinner that night. We started (after the pizza) with a fresh crab salad that was huge. Then, a fish ravioli that was out of this world. Just when I thought they were done and going to bring the dessert a giant lobster showed up on the plate in front of me. Just as we were all about to explode a chocolate mousse appeared. There is no going hungry here, even if guest don’t like fish or have a gluten allergy or are vegetarians or want kosher, a very large and very delicious meal will be created just for them.
The best part about it is that all the delicious food is served by the most wonderful people. Martin and Ephraim were great hosts and were there at our every beck and call. Their smiling faces were almost more inviting than the food.
Saturday, October 17, 2009: Alfijiri Villas
Today, Fabrizio had arranged a surprise visit to Kisite Wasini Island. We embarked onto a giant dhow in the morning and set out in search of dolphins which we soon found. We watched them swim while sipping cold drinks. Next, we went to the marine park (a protected under water area where no fishing is allowed) to snorkel (a shallow water dive for beginners is also offered for $50 extra) around at the small island. We did a great drift snorkel with a guide and saw beautiful healthy coral, fish with so many colors it looked like a kid drew on them with every crayon in the box, lobster, star fish and so much more. The day got even better with a seafood lunch on the beach of another small island, surrounded by the beautiful turquoise waters and the hustle and bustle of fishermen passing by in dugout boats. Of course, we came back to a breathtaking five-course Italian meal of fresh oysters, seared tuna, homemade gnocchi and crepes. I couldn’t think of a better way to spend a Saturday.
Sunday, October 18, 2009: Alfijiri Villas
In the morning we received a tour of the Alfijiri compound. Alfijiri consists of three private villas: Cliff Villa, Garden Villa and Beach Villa. Each one is completely separate with their own staff and pool; a decorative wall with a giant Lamu door separates them. All are rented on an exclusive basis and are completely private. The Beach Villa is great for families; the garden villa is great for couples traveling together as all the rooms are the same so there is no need to fight over the best one and the Cliff Villa is ideal for honeymooners as there is one amazing room at the top looks out over the ocean. All of the villas are differently decorated Maraca Molinaro, owner, with artifacts, linins and furniture from all over the world. Each time you walk into a room (even the bathrooms) you can help but let out a little “wow!” Although, as beautiful as each of the villas are it is the feeling you get while there that makes Alfajiri so special. You feel relaxed and welcome. You have someone there for your every need but it doesn’t feel stuffy or invading of your personal space. All of the staff there has a personality that you can’t help but fall in love with.
The rest of the morning we had for our leisure. We all enjoyed massages (I know my job sucks), went for a swim in our private pool and of course had a two-hour lunch that was nothing short of magnificent. We got a chance to talk with Maraca about Alfijiri, Kenya and life. I was a very European lunch and we could have been there all afternoon if we didn’t have a plane to catch. We said our goodbyes and Patrick with IntraSafaris drove us to the airstrip only 3 minutes from Alfijiri – very convenient.
After, only a one and a half hour flight back to Nairobi and we were taken for our farewell dinner then we said our sorrowful goodbyes and all went our separate ways. Another fantastic adventure in Kenya!
