Alfajiri Villas and Galdessa Camp Site Inspection Report :: July 2008

Alfajiri Villas and Galdessa Camp
Site Inspection
July 2008

July 25, 2008 :: Flight Nairobi – Mombasa

The flight to Mombasa was via JKIA’s domestic terminal. The flight was slightly delayed, which was kind of a bummer as there is not much to do once through security at the domestic departure terminal. While it was cool in Nairobi, we arrived to a pleasantly warm evening in Mombasa.

The drive from the Mombasa airport to Alfajiri Villas is about 1.5 hours. This all depends, of course, on the queue at the ferry terminal. Falling under the category of “why didn’t they just build a bridge?” when traveling to Diani beach (the south coast of Mombasa) there is about 100 meters of ocean channel that you must board a ferry to cross over. This is actually a fun little taste of Africa and on the Friday evening I passed through there was much activity happening before and after the ferry. Apparently they can’t build a bridge because it would need to open to let the large ships through, and that is too expensive at this point for the country to manage. So, ferries take cars and people across for now (cars are charged, people are not).

For those not wanting to deal with the drive and the ferry, there is Ukunda airstrip a mere 5 minutes from Alfajiri. There are daily scheduled flights into this airstrip from the Mara, making it a convenient connection for an after-safari beach stay.

Driving on the main road along the beach, you would never even know Alfajiri existed. While all the other hotels have large signs and gates, the entry into Alfajuri is simply a dirt road that goes into the bush. You drive for a minute or so through the thick coastal bush and then arrive to a gate with a small sign. Then you enter into the car park area and enter yet another gate before entering the main villa. This location is discreet and secure. Fabrizio Molinaro, Alfajiri’s gracious host, was ready to greet me upon arrival with a nice chilled glass of red wine and an amazing meal of pasta and kingfish.

I was feeling completely exhausted from my previous two weeks of travel in Africa when arriving at Alfajiri, but as I lay in the king sized bed in the master suite of the Cliff Villa, listening to the ocean, I knew that this place would be able to heal what ailed me.

July 26, 2008 :: Alfajiri

This morning I slept longer that I anticipated, as the lull of the ocean and black shades on the massive glass windows surrounding the master suite of the Cliff Villa blocked out the sun, so I had a great, unintentional sleep in! Duncan, my private butler, was waiting when I came downstairs to the main level dining area, overlooking the Indian Ocean from its position high on a cliff, with coffee and breakfast. I spent the morning relaxing in this main area, next to the pool.

The sitting area in the master suite of Alfajiri’s Cliff Villa.

Cliff Villa is the main attraction at Alfajiri. It’s pagoda-style architecture and amazing interior décor (which is always changing thanks to Marika, Fabrizio’s wife) are stunning. This villa sleeps 6 adults and on the main floor there are three single beds for children and nannies. This villa also has its own pool. Cliff Villa offers total privacy, though it’s right on the ocean, and is perfect for VIPs and others that demand total privacy.

The Garden villa, located in the middle of the three villas at Alfajiri, exceeded my expectations and photos had not done it justice. This villa has four bedrooms, each as nice as the next, so four couples could easily share this space and not have to argue over who gets the “master” bedroom. The main sitting and dining space is gigantic, tastefully decorated and comfortable overlooking the pool and the ocean. This villa also has a Jacuzzi tub outside on the lawn.

Finally, the Beach Villa is perfect for a Honeymoon couple or two couples to share. This is the only one of the villas to not charge a supplement for less than 4 people. Most couples choose the lovely bedroom open to the ocean.

This is a fantastic place to come to relax, rejuvenate and be healthy. With a new yoga instructor, golf just down the road, long walks on the beach and massage all included, it’s easy to be healthy. Plus, the food is very light, including fresh seafood at each meal. Today for lunch we had a huge pile of extremely fresh (“alive this morning”) crab and a large salad.

Having said that, guests at Alfajiri are also free to drink and be merry as much as they want as well. Each villa can be thought of “as your private home, you’re villa”, with no schedule or dress code. All drinks, except champagne, are included and the butlers make sure your wine glass is never, ever empty.

This afternoon we took a walk on the beach. While it’s possible to walk right in front of Alfajiri, the coral cliff and the tides make it a little difficult. The driver (a driver is always available at any time for guests use) drove me about 10 minutes down the road where we walked in the late afternoon light. Ali, who always accompanies guests on walks, joined me and carried a woven bag with a blanket, water and my shoes. He was great company to have along and made for interesting conversation.

A long walk on Diani Beach.

I arrived back at Alfajiri just in time for a massage (included in the price, guests can have as many as they wish!). This was the perfect end to the day.

Dinner tonight was fresh-caught calamari and scrumptious ravioli.

The magical things that should be noted about Alfajiri are:

• Fabrizio and Marika are always on hand to personally organize everything for clients. Each morning the schedule for the day is set and Fabrizio or Marika make all the arrangements. For example, Fabrizio even accompanied his clients to the golf course this afternoon just to be sure they wouldn’t have to stand in line or have any difficulties.
• Everything is included in the price! Even at some of the nicest properties in the world (such as North Island in the Seychelles), massage and other activities are not included.
• These villas offer total and complete privacy. Since you are in a villa, meals are always taken in private. You’re in a villa, not a hotel. You do what you want, when you want, and will not see any other guests.
• This is perhaps the only place in Africa where I set down my handbag upon arrival and did not touch it again until we left. Alfajiri Villas are totally safe and secure and I never even locked the door to my room (though locks of course are available).
• I have never seen such happy staff. You can tell they are treated well and love their jobs. The service overall was outstanding.

Alfajiri Villas are a perfect accommodation option for honeymooners. It works at the beginning (for couples who rushed directly from the wedding and need a few days to unwind after a long trip and before their safari) or at the end of a trip, after the safari.

July 27, 2008 :: Galdessa

This morning after breakfast we drove to Galdessa, in Tsavo East. This drive, which included a game drive en route once inside the Tsavo East Voi gate, is about 5 hours. The road is very good and it is a comfortable drive.

Transfer options… An ideal way to work Galdessa into a safari itinerary is as follows:

1. Arrive Nairobi, spend one night
2. Drive to Galdessa, which takes no more than 5 hours from Nairobi, including a game drive in the park en route to the camp. The road from Nairobi to the park has just been redone and is fine. Arrive in time for a late lunch at camp and evening game drive. Spend 3 nights Galdessa
3. On the last morning, leave camp at 6am to catch Mombassa Air scheduled flight direct to Mara at 8.30am from Tsavo West. Spend 3 nights Mara Explorer.
4. Fly to Mombassa (there are direct flights, even to Ukunda airstrip in Diani, from the Mara) 3 or 4 nights Alfajiri and connect to Nairobi for international flight home.

Tsavo East is spectacular in terms of scenery, and is very different from the other parks in Kenya. It’s quite dry (aside form the rainy season of course) but the Galana River is huge and permanent, which allows for great game viewing and lush vegetation near the river. The Doum Palms add a unique atmosphere to the place.

Upon arrival at Galdessa Camp there was a huge elephant right next to the dining area. We simply walked the long way around it, as the guide explained that this happens often and they know this particular elephant. The staff are very cautious with guests and guests are escprted pretty much everywhere while in camp. In fact, guests staying at the further-away tents (including the family tent way at the end) are driven to and from the main areas at all times.

The tents are very comfortable, and again have their own, classy style. All the fixtures (including headboard, sink, even toilet!) are made of natural stone and wood, but done so in a very stylish way. Galdessa is comprised of Private Galdessa and Main Galdessa. Private Galdessa is ideal for American clients, and offers three tents and private lounge and dining area for these three tents. If a couple wants to book only one tent in Private Galdessa, they can still request the private dining and lounge on a first-come basis. There is a $100 per person per night supplement for the private camp. Main Galdessa has 12 tents, including the family tents. All tents are very similar in style and design.

After tea, we embarked on the evening game drive. The only vehicles we saw the entire time were other guests of Galdessa camp. The game drive route was long the Gelana River, and we saw a variety of birds, elephant, zebra, giraffe and even the shy Lesser Kudu. We stopped for a nice walk along Luggard’s Falls and visited Crocodile Point. The third stop was a well-executed surprise sundowner, under the guise of looking for a hyena den. With a comfy “lounge” set up in perfect view of the sunset, it was just amazing. All guests on full package are entitled to a sundowner at some point during their stay.

Leopard Rock on the Gelana River,
sundowner time!

July 28, 2009: Overnight Galdessa

This morning we were up early for a morning game drive. Last night we enjoyed comfortable sleeping weather, not cool and not hot. This morning was comfortable as well, vs. the Mara where it was quite cold in the morning. We saw more spectacularly-horned kudu, lots of elephant and amazing bird life.

One other important note, in over three hours on a game drive in the bush we only saw one other safari vehicle. It’s amazingly private and secluded here at Galdessa in this area of Tsavo East.

We were just pulling into camp for breakfast when the driver received a call about a leopard sighting. So we went straight away, and before I knew it we were winding towards the river and, you guessed it, the leopard was in fact a surprise bush breakfast! They sure know how to execute the element of surprise here at Galdessa. Again, all guests on full package rate would have this organized for them at some point during the stay.

A visitor in camp just as we were arriving!

Ok, I have to say I’ve never, ever been quite THIS close to elephants in Africa before. As I write this I’m still reeling from a close encounter with a large bull elephant that was eating literally right next to my tent! I was afraid to type on my laptop as I was nervous the sound of the keys typing would disturb him, that’s how close he was! Probably within five feet from me. Wow.

The main camp has 2 family tents, with number 12 holding one king bed and three singles. Number 12 also has a larger bathroom and is perfect for families. Private Galdessa and Main Galdessa also both each have a “honeymoon” tent, and these have second-level sitting areas overlooking the river. It’s a lovely place to sit and relax. Private Galdessa Tent A is the premier honeymoon tent, as it’s on the private side of camp and at the way end, allowing for total privacy.

Today we enjoyed plenty of down time just before and after lunch, and it’s a good thing as the weather turned quite hot. The tents are cool and a perfect chance to nap or catch up on some good reading (in my case, sadly, it was all catching up on work!) This evening we enjoyed an afternoon game drive, coming across two large herds of buffalo, a mating pair of lion, and of course, elephant!