Ethiopia with Dinknesh Ethiopia Tour
Trip Report April 2008
By: Sarah Fazendin
April 2, 2008 – International Flight
Our trip began with an international flight from Washington, Dulles airport (IAD). Dulles is a busy airport, and while the airport was chaotic the Ethiopian Airlines check-in process ran smooth and orderly. There were not long lines and the staff was extremely friendly and helpful. Security was a long line, and we had to take a “people mover” to the terminal, all in all the process took about one hour. We had plenty of time at the gate. The flight was amazingly fairly empty, which meant we could all stretch out and enjoy the ride. The aircraft was not “shiny new” and the bathrooms were not the best, but all in all it was just fine, and of course the staff were lovely. The flight to Rome was about 7 hours.
In the days leading up to our departure I started reading the book “The Sign and the Seal” by Graham Hancock. This book is a detailed compilation of research, which is as “readable as a first-class detective story”, regarding the possibility that the Ark of the Covenant being in Ethiopia as all Ethiopians believe and have believed for thousands of years. This 600-page tome is a fantastic introduction (in fact more than an introduction!) to the main historical areas of Ethiopia… which we are about to explore. Reading this book certainly got me “in the mood” for the trip and gave me a flavor of what we were about to experience. I’d highly recommend that any Ethiopian traveler at least start reading this book before departing.
April 3, 2008 – International Flight and Arrival in Addis Ababa
After about one and a half hours on the ground in Rome, we embarked on the shorter half of our journey to Ethiopia. During the time on the ground the aircraft was cleaned up (which was good as the bathrooms did manage to become pretty soiled). Flying over Egypt and the Sudan in the early evening light, I grew more and more excited to touch down on African soil. Unlike other African destinations, while amazing trips and experiences in their own right, I have a true feeling that I’m about to embark on an adventure in one of the last “un-Westernized” regions of the world.
We spent over an hour at the airport upon arrival getting visas, exchanging dollars for Birr and claiming luggage. The experience was not stressful and quite organized, just a little time consuming.
- Visa: Complete the form the Ethiopian Airlines staff give you on the plane. We had to ask for forms from the flight attendants as we missed the original hand-out. Get right in line, it’s a 4-person, hand-written process, but easy and they are quite friendly.
- Cash: Bring US Dollars and exchange this at the airport, before you leave the customs area. This is the most convenient time to get cash, and plan to get cash for the whole trip. Exchange a 100 Birr note for a pack of 1 Birr notes, you’ll need these for tipping and taking photos. For a two week trip, depending on your shopping habits, $400 or $500 US should be plenty.
Our guide, Mulakin, greeted us with flowers and provided a nice briefing on the way to the Ghion hotel. The hotel was about a 10 minute drive from the airport. We enjoyed a lovely meal at the hotel and our first Ethiopian Beers, St. Georges Beer.
The food at the Ghion in Addis was very nice. Some of the best in fact. The rooms were clean and surprisingly nice, with welcome hot showers.
Hotel notes: The Sheraton and The Hilton are the only “western-standard” hotels in Addis Ababa.
- Sheraton: This hotel is truly lovely and would be an ideal place to rest up after the long flight and have a good shower before embarking onwards. The common areas are beautiful, with nice fountains out front and the rooms are what one would expect in the US.
- Hilton: This hotel, which is less expensive than the Sheraton, is lovely and well worth the value in Addis. There is a lively bar on the main floor. I’d recommend that all clients who are willing to spend a little extra in Addis book this hotel for any nights in Addis. While the Ghion is nice enough, this hotel offers all the amenities one would expect outside Ethiopia and is a good value.
April 4, 2008 – Bahir Dar After our 4.30 am wake up call and coffee organized in the lobby of the hotel, we made our way to the airport for the domestic flight to Bahir Dar. The flight was efficient and pleasant.
Bahir Dar lies on the edge of Lake Tana and is the second largest city in Ethiopia. I have never seen a city with less traffic, and as with the rest of Ethiopia, it’s remarkably clean.
We arrived at the Lake Tana Hotel by Ghion in the morning for breakfast. We were allowed to check into our hotel rooms to put down the bags, even though the rooms were still being cleaned, which was nice. The food at this hotel was not the best we were to have, but served it’s purpose. We quickly learned that at each of the government hotels tourists are offered 2 options for starters and 2 main course options. If you want local Ethiopian food it needs to be requested. We also learned that for those not wanting to eat meat, after some discussion it’s possible to order both starters as the meal, which would consist usually of some sort of soup and pasta, plenty to fill the belly. Bread is served with every meal.
After breakfast we took a lovely boat ride for 40 minutes on Lake Tana to the first of two Island Monasteries. These monasteries were built in the 14th century and the paintings were done in the 16th century. A few notes:
- Women need to bring a head scarf to cover their heads while in the monasteries – and all churches and places of worship in the North.
- A local guide will show up, and it’s not always clear that he’s around to show you the monasteries. Take advantage of his information and ask lots of questions.
The first monastery was reached via a 20 minute walk up hill. It’s not strenuous, but in the morning heat will get your heart pumping! There are lots of kids trying to sell you small reed boats and other handi-crafts. You can make a donation to the church. Small cross necklaces will cost about 60 Birr, but it seems best to wait to purchase the Axum or Lalibela crosses in Axum.
No reservations are necessary to visit the churches, and there are a total of 20 islands on the lake. If you have more time you can visit the less touristy churches, but the ones that are accessible via a half-day trip are pretty accustomed to tourists and very interesting.
First church was Ura Kidone Mihret. At the second church we caught the end of a local burial ceremony. What is so special about these monasteries is that they are very much still being used as places of worship. Also, they house some priceless artifacts that one would expect to see in a museum!
A note on Guiding:
When asked questions, the guides are proficient and have a vast amount of knowledge, but they don’t always offer that information up. So ask lots of questions and do some research before you arrive to make the most of the time there.
This afternoon we visited the Blue Nile falls. While this use to be larger, it is still an impressive area to see, and is interesting as it is the source of the Nile. We took a quick boat ride across the river then a 15 minute leisurely walk to the falls. It was nice to spend the afternoon climbing on the rocks and chatting with the local kids who were selling scarves and other crafts.
Dinner again was nothing exciting, but filled the belly. We inspected another property which offered nicer bathrooms but was not on the lake. The government hotel, while in disrepair, offers the best setting in town.
April 5, 2008 -- Gonder
This Saturday morning we heard the lovely calls to prayer start before the sun rose. We drove about 4 hours to Gonder, the second largest city in Ethiopia and home to the 15th century castles of Fasilidas and others. This was spectacular and we had a fantastic local guide. These castles are amazingly still in-tact after several wars and years of use as a variety of things, from castles, to government houses, etc.
The baths were also amazing. This large “bath” is filled with water and Ethiopians take a swim in the holy water at the time of Epiphany/Timkat which takes place in January each year. There is bench seating erected and Timkat here which would be a spectacular event to witness at some point.
Finally, we visited a church in Gonder famous for it’s painted ceiling and ornate painted walls.
Dinner this evening was a fantastic Ethiopian meal and a restaurant near the government hotel where we were staying. As I mentioned before, it is assumed that Americans don’t like Ethiopian food and would prefer the bland choices at the tourist hotels. If you want to enjoy the local Ethiopian food, which is great, you really need to ask and make an effort to get this food.
April 6, 2009 – Simean Mountains
Today we drove to the Simean mountains from Gonder, about 4 hours each way. No client would ever drive that much in one day, but this of course was a fast-paced fam trip! The drive was quite scenic, and all on a well-packed gravel road which was in pretty good condition.
We picked up a local guide and two “guards” at the gate before entering the park. The “guards” are armed, but more are a way for the local community to realize benefit from tourism and gain employment. The only wildlife we saw were baboons, however if one were to trek here you could see the most-rare canine, the Ethiopian Fox, as well as the rare Walia Ibex.
We had lunch at and inspected a great eco-lodge in the park – the Simean Mountain Lodge. The food here was excellent and the rooms are very nice at this new property perched on top of the mountains.
A trekking add-on would be the perfect compliment to a Northern Ethiopia itinerary for clients interested in landscape, seeing rare animals (the Ethiopian Wolf and Walia Ibex) and who simply would like to get a little exercise. Camping in the park would be stunning, or the Simean Mountain Lodge a very comfortable option at the start or end of the trek. The other travelers we spoke with who had done trekking said that it was amazing and something really special, compared with other trekking holidays. Five nights would be plenty.
April 7, 2008 -- Lalibela
After a short 35 minute flight, we arrived in Lalibela. It’s about a 25 minute drive to Lalibela from the airport, which is a small village compared to Gonder and Addis. This Tigray area is very, very dry, and was one of the hardest hit by the famines of the 1980’s. We proceeded directly to the famed rock-hewn churches and was this ever an amazing experience! It’s very difficult to describe the churches and the experience of being in Lalibela. This was definitely a highlight of the trip. This is a very holy and sacred area, which carried a real aurora of religion and somber reflection. I felt like I could have been walking around there several hundred years ago.
In each of the churches, of which there are 14 in total in the main compound area, you take your shoes off before entering the church, cover your hear and typically the priest of each church will show their precious cross. UNESCO has built solid covers on most of the large churches in an effort to preserve them. It is a bit frustrating to see the scaffolding, but it’s the best thing for the preservation of these amazing structures for future generations.
Travelers should spend two days in the Lalibela area. It’s a sleepy, quiet town where travelers can easily walk around, and should be able to spend their time at the churches. There are also less famous rock-hewn churches in the surrounding areas to which visits can be arranged.
We overnighted at the Government hotel. The group consensus was that this was the best of the hotels as yet, but we may also simply be getting used to them! The great thing about the government hotels is that you know what you’re going to get in each city.
Dinner was at the Jeruselam Hotel. Rooms were ok, but had great balconies with nice views, the food was also nice.
The trip is going fast, but we’re seeing quite a bit and all adjusting to Ethiopian life. I would definitely recommend 2 nights in Lalibela vs. one. There is a lot to see and it’s a nice city to walk around in, very safe, and a nice place to relax a little.
April 8, 2008 -- Axum
Some of the group went back to the churches at 6.30 to see them in the morning light. This was an opportunity to see morning prayers while enjoying the morning light for photography.
After another short 40 minute flight we arrived in Axum.
Axum is a city that seems too small and quaint for the magnitude of ancient artifacts that are there. Ancient steale, tombs, a “museum” where they are keeping ancient artifacts in old Philadelphia cream cheese containers… there is so much history there it’s hard to take it all in and sometimes difficult to appreciate given the casual presentation. This would be an ideal location to start a Northern Ethiopia tour, as it is filled with very important, and the oldest, relics and history of Ethiopia. While unassuming, the magnitude of important historical artifacts in this city is humbling. It provides a solid context for the other historical sights of Gonder and Lalibela.
I truly felt, as I had never before, that in Axum we were someplace very sacred and holy. Entering the St. Georges compound was one of the most surreal experiences of my life. As it was lent, the worshipers were dressed in all white and were simply leaning against trees, grouped at the gates and leaning against the walls of the church showing reverence and respect for the church and the area where the Ark of the Covenant is said to be held. The compound had an eerie yet reverential feeling and emotion like nothing I’d experienced before.
Thoughts on the North: The northern part of Ethiopia is something that every African traveler needs to experience. The opportunity to have casual encounter with priceless artifacts, ancient religious traditions in astounding churches and monasteries that have been used as places of worship for hundreds of years is truly unique to Ethiopia. UNESCO is doing a great job of working to preserve these ancient sights, but one can still see the famous St. Georges Church in Lalibela free of scaffolding. Similarly, over time these priceless artifacts and sights will need to be further controlled to be saved for posterity. Now is the time to visit Ethiopia to see these sights as they are today and has they have been for hundreds of years. These are places where you can take advantage of the local guides, ask questions and just observe the rituals that take place there. The tourism infrastructure in the north runs like clock-work and we have heard that a private investor may be purchasing the chain of government hotels (which wouldn’t take much to bring them up to Western standards).
April 9, 2008 – Meetings with Ethiopian Airlines and Dinknesh Ethiopia Tour
Today’s flight from Axum to Addis Ababa was the only domestic flight that was slightly delayed. After a quick flight we enjoyed lunch with Ethiopian Airlines, a tour of their facilities and a traditional Ethiopian dinner.
April 10, 2008 – Drive to Arba Minch
One thing is for sure, one must be extremely interested in Ethiopian/African culture to want to travel to the southern part of Ethiopia. The drive from Addis Ababa to Arba Minch was extremely long, about 12 hours with only a few stops. Most of the road is in great condition and it’s quite interesting to drive through the villages and towns along the way. There are flights from Addis 2 times per week to Arbma Minch.
We had lunch at a very lovely new hotel called Sabanno on the shores of Lake Lagano. This property was built towards the end of 2007 is the nicest property we saw outside of Addis. The food was fantastic. At about $65 per room per night it’s a reason to consider driving to the South instead of flying… which is my next recommendation! Overall, it would be wise to plan an itinerary around the Ethiopian airlines schedule to Arba Minch, which at this point is Wednesday and Saturday. The drive really tires one out, and it’s important to have all your energy for a place like the South Omo Valley.
We spent the night at the Bekele Mole hotel at Arba Minch, where the food was good and the view was amazing. The rooms are lower quality than the government hotels in the north.
April 11, 2008 – Arba Minch drive to Turmi
Today we drove about 6 hours to the depths of the Omo Valley. Lunch was at a truck stop/bus stop/tourist stop and our guide informed us that all they could make us was spaghetti. Then we proceeded to an Abora Village, which was intense in terms of people coming up, swarming around us and asking for us to take their photo. There were many women and children around and almost no men, as this tribe is nomadic and the men leave for up to 20 days tending to the cattle, goats and sheep. We stepped into a hut and spoke with the people who live there.
A few more hours and we arrived at our public campsight. The campsight was well kept, but the toilet facilities were just a hole. Dinknesh brought a portable shower which was great and the camping gear was in perfect condition.
The highlight of the day was a walk 3k from the campsight to Turmi village. Our stroll in the beautiful evening light led us to the Green Hotel where we had a cold beer before our trek back, speaking with the locals and enjoying the scenery and action of an African village the whole way there and back.
April 12. 2008 -- Hammer
This morning we walked a short distance to the Hammer village from the campsight. The Hammer people were lovely and the overall scene was much calmer than the Abora people. We learned to hang out a while before diving into the photo frenzy. I was able to have conversations with ladies in the village about babies, etc, despite the fact that we didn’t speak the same language!
En route to Jinka, we stopped at the Saturday Hammer market. This was a great opportunity to wander around and learn more about this culture and way of life. It was a lively gathering and a great social event! I’d recommend that anyone going to the south plan to incorporate one market day into the itinerary. At the Hammer market we were not swarmed or asked to take photos in exchange for Birr.
After lunch and the market we proceeded to Jinka. The only reason to go to Jinka is that it is the closest city and accommodation to the Mursi people. Jinka is a small town, with a landing strip in the middle that is rarely used anymore as Ethiopian airlines could not fill that flight so it’s full of people, goats, cows, chickens and the typical Ethiopian village scene. We did step outside the hotel to walk through town, which was bustling as everyone was coming home from school and work.
Dinner, and all meals in fact while we were at Jinka, were provided by our private cook at a local campsight (outside food is not allowed at the hotel). The private cook’s food was fantastic… usually a meat, a vegetable salad, bread, rice and fruit for dessert.
April 13, 2008 – Mursi, overnight Jinka
We had been warned about the Mursi people as being very aggressive and not an overall pleasant experience. This proved to be somewhat true and somewhat false. They were not quite as aggressive as we had been told, but nonetheless they were posing and all they wanted was for their photo to be taken. It left us with a negative feeling, in that it seems wrong to be trading photos for money. We wished we could have learned more about their cultures and felt that it was not quite worthwhile to travel all the way down past Jinka, essentially 3 days of travel, to spend 20 minutes with these people and not learn anything about them.
April 14, 2008 – Jinka to Arba Minch
Today was a six hour drive back to the Bekele Mole hotel in Arbma Minch. Again the food here was fantastic, in fact the best we’d had at a hotel the whole trip. This hotel has an amazing view from the balcony and we enjoyed sundownwers here on this last night in Ethiopia.
Thoughts on the South: It’s amazing how different the North and the South of Ethiopia are. Driving to the south one gets a better idea of daily Ethiopian life. The whole reason to go to the South, however, is to visit some of the famous cultural tribes that still live there. For the most part, these people allow you to take their photo and in return you pay them 2 Birr for each click of the shutter. Some tribes, such as the Hamer and the Dorze, are very interesting to visit and offer a chance at meaningful cultural interaction. Others, like the Arbora and the Mursi are simply “transactions” and not a sustainable or solid model of cultural tourism. When selling travel to the South, ask your clients what they are really looking for from the experience and work together to craft an itinerary that highlights the best opportunities to learn about the cultures and places to where your clients are traveling.
April 15 – Arbma Minch to Addis to Home
Today was an early start and the twelve hour drive back to Addis for the international flight home.
En route we stopped to visit the Dorze people, which was a wonderful experience. One member of the community welcomes you, and speaking in very good English shows you a traditional home as well as how the “false banana” plant functions as a bread for the people there. You even get to taste some freshly baked bread with (very spicy!) paste at the end of the village tour. This Dorze village has also built 6 or so rooms where tourists can stay. The rooms are simple with comfortable beds and one electric light, there are separate showers and flush toilets and a nice common eating area. This is the best example of cultural tourism we saw in the South and would be a great one-night stop on a southern circuit journey.
As mentioned before, this is a very long drive. The group was lucky enough to experience Business Class with Ethiopian Airlines (called Cloud Nine) on the way home. The business class lounge at the airport is beautiful and comfortable, with snacks, drinks and internet service. The boarding process was orderly. In business class the seats are comfortable and the food is very nice (and plenty of it!).
I leave Ethiopia exhausted, but feeling very lucky to have experienced the historical gems of the north and the lovely people of the south. Ethiopia was an African destination like nothing I’ve experienced before and I continue to be amazed at the rich history and priceless artifacts we experienced in the northern part of the country. I felt welcomed by the people there who were happy to share these gems with us and totally safe as a traveler. Ethiopia is a destination for seasoned African travelers interested in diving into this unique culture and history. While not an easy trip, nor as luxurious a travel experience as many other African countries, it is well worth it to experience this destination sooner rather than later.
